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Celebrity Cruise lines
Tom Ogg
The setup:
The Ship:
Day One, September 7th, 2005; Venice, Italy,
Casual We met in Cosmos Lounge for our party and I was glad to meet the group coordinator and group members. There were quite a few agents that had not sailed the Mediterranean before, so I made a note to go over the ports at the first seminar. We had a great time getting to know one another and when the party was over, we moved into the Metropolitan Restaurant where we enjoyed the first of pur cruise's excellent dining experiences. Since I did not have a seminar to do in the morning and I was in the same time zone, I went back to Cosmos Night Club to enjoy the music and see if I could run into any of our group members that were out and about. Being the first night of the cruise, many people had gone to bed and there wasn't much going on. I turned in.
Day Two, September 8th, 2005; Venice, Italy,
Informal
I decided to take a local vaparetto to Murano and see what was there. I had taken shots of San Marcos Square and also of the Grand Canal and had some extra time so I went to find the vaparetto station that would take me there. As it turned out, it wasn't all that easy. I started at the vaparetto ticket booth on the Grand Canal just down from the Rialto Bridge. He told me that I had to depart for Murano from St. Marks Square. I walked back to St. Marks taking the back streets that I had learned would take me there in less than 10-minutes. I went to the first vaparetto station I could find and asked if I was in the right place. He pointed toward the Doge Palace. So it went. After a frustrating time, I finally found the right ticket booth (pictured above) and wharf for the vaparetto that would take me to Murano. Here are the instructions on how to find it. From St. Marks square go over the footbridge that allows you to see the Bridge of Sighs (turn to the right if you are facing the palace) and then keep going until you see the ticket booth pictured above. You want vaparetto #41 to take you there and vaparetto #42 to bring you back. Be careful, though as there are two #42's that depart Murano. The fare is 6 euro return (round trip).
For whatever reason, I suspected that Murano was going to be nothing but a tourist trap full of tourists so I planned to jump off the vaparetto when we arrived at a likely looking spot where there were no tourists. We pulled up to the P.te Nove wharf and there were a good number of locals getting off, but no tourists. I sensed this was my opportunity for some peace and quiet, so I got off with the rest of the folks. It turned out to be a great plan.
Since I had no idea where I was or what the town was called, I am embarrassed to say I will simply call it F.te Nove for the lack of a better name. No one spoke a word of English, and frankly my Italian is more like Spanish with an Italian sound. Folks were plenty nice though. I wandered its narrow pedestrian streets and noticed that there were an abundance of artist galleries and also stone and clay shops.
I passed several flower shops all selling spectacular arrangements, a local fish market in a small square where the fish were being sold open air on ice, local pharmacies and dry good stores and of course, local restaurants.
I thought this place was really cool. The picture doesn't really do it justice, but it had all the character one could imagine. I stopped for a cup of coffee and just took in the local goings-on in for about 45 minutes. I could tell that it had been some time since this restaurant had a tourist in it as everyone kept looking at me and laughing at my "Italish". I could have spent the entire day in and around F.te Nove (or whatever its real name is). Since my objective was to visit Murano, I made my way back to the vaparetto wharf and caught the #41 to Murano.
Here is where to get off the vaparetto. There is no announcement made in English and the name of the stop is something other than Murano. When you see this sign, get off the vaparetto.
After arriving in Murano with what seemed like a million other folks, there was a gentleman on the wharf directing people to the left. He looked like the same kind of character that hustles the "free trips" around St. Mark's Square, so I went to the right. Of course, going to the right is the way everyone should have gone.
After walking a short distance past some small stores and vendors, one comes upon a canal that is lined with quality stores selling Murano glass. I am not sure how many stores there are, but it must be in the hundreds.
There are footbridges every now and then so that you may cross to the other side to gain access to more shops. You will also find a good number of restaurants and sidewalk cafes should your hunger alarm go off.
I finally turned around and took this picture from a footbridge as I crossed the canal. I admit to not being a very good shopper, however, I saw just about everything you could imagine that could be made from glass, and it is beautiful. Chandeliers, vases, glassware, jewelry, figurines, animals, dishes and other dining utensils and much, much more.
After a long walk around the canal shopping area I decided to take a look at the area folks were being referred to as they left the vaparetto. I walked past the center of Murano and around the corner on the open ocean. There were a few stores but now I understood why the guy was sending folks there. He obviously worked for one of the factories that were located there and was trying to divert people from the real shopping area. I will bet you that some folks never made it down to the canal and thought that this was the Murano experience.
A couple of the stores had demonstrations of how the glass was made that you could watch. While it was interesting, the stores hosting the events were not as competitive as those in the main part of the shopping canal. At the very end of the walkway was a museum and factory store. There was a long line of tourist waiting to get in. I turned around and made my way back to the vaparetto terminal to catch the #42 back to St. Marks Square. Hint: Unless you are either keenly interested in buying Murano glass or have exhausted things to do in Venice, I wouldn't visit Murano. It is quaint and interesting, it is just that there is so much more to see in Venice and most of the glass pieces I saw in the stores on Murano are also available from shops in Venice. Have Fun! I took the ship's shuttle boat back to the Millennium just in time for the 3:30 pm lifeboat drill. After watching the sail away (don't miss it!) I fell into my routine of visiting the solarium and relaxing in the Jacuzzis and spa. I was dressed in time to take in the evening's pre-dinner show, an illusionist named Jamie Allen. Dinner went quite smoothly and our group was already coming together.
Day Three, September 9th, 2006; Dubrovnik,
Croatia, Formal
Dubrovnik is an excellent port that is easy to do on your own. It offers great shopping, restaurants and other activities. I finally took the transfer back to the harbor where the Millennium was at anchor in the bay. There were a good number of ships in port and the Millennium had to anchor and tender making the process a little more trying. Once back aboard, it was off to the solarium for me and another round with the spa. Since this was the first formal night, I had arranged to meet with many in our group for pre-dinner cocktails before going into the Metropolitan Restaurant for what was turning out to be an exceptional dining experience. The Millennium's first production show was this evening and even though I had a seminar to do in the morning, I stayed up to enjoy it. Titled "Spectacle of Broadway" it was a fantastic show that I stayed for the very last.
Day Four, September 10th, 2005; Day at Sea,
Informal
Day Five, September 11th, 2005; Athens, Greece,
Casual
When you disembark the ship you will go through the cruise terminal and be led out the front door where many taxis will be waiting. The taxi drivers will bug you to death. Just ignore them and keep walking right out of the port facility. When you nit the street simply turn left and follow the road around the harbor. It will be about a 20-minute walk to the train station.
As you round the harbor, you will come to the area where the ferries dock (there may or may not be ferries in the port at the time. You will come to a large intersection with two roads converging on the road that you are on. Take the road to the immediate right (pictured above). The train station is about four short blocks on the right hand side.
You will come to a square and see the train station on the far side of the square. There are a number of doors that you can enter.
Look for the main ticket counter (pictured above) and then purchase a round-trip ticket to the Plaka. The entire fare to get there is only 1 euro and 20 cents. Once you have purchased your ticket just go up the steps to the waiting train and find a seat.
The 7th stop that you will make will display this sign. This is where you want to get off the train, as you are right in the heart of the Plaka district. If for any reason there are a different number of stops, just look for this sign.
When you leave the train station, you can look up towards the Acropolis. If you turn to the right and start going up hill (pictured above) it will lead ou to the ticket office so that you can then gain entrance and climb to the Acropolis. Entrance to the Acropolis is current 12 euro. On the way you will pass several sights and ruins worthy of exploration.
Once you have explored the Acropolis to your satisfaction, you can head back down the hill to the Plaka any number of ways to see more sights. Back at the train station, you are right in the middle of the Plaka. There are restaurants.
and there is unlimited shopping for everything under the sun.
You should be very wary in and around the Plaka, as it can get quite crowded and the area is known to have pick pockets that look for tourists. When you are ready to go back to Piraeus and the ship, just return to the train station and go down the right side (opposite side) of the tracks to catch the train to Piraeus (you will see a sign clearly marked "Piraeus" in the station. Again you must validate your return ticket when entering the station.
Once again, Piraeus will be the seventh (and final) stop for the train. Look for this sign as confirmation that you are, indeed in the right station.
Welcome back to Piraeus. It is now just a short 20-minute walk back to the ship. Be sure to leave some time to visit the local market in front of the train station and also along the way back to the ship. There was another early show this evening string the Celebrity Singers and Dancers entitled "Classique, a Musical Odyssey" and it was wonderful. This led to another excellent dining experience followed by an early evening. One word of caution on this itinerary. You are so busy with a port day almost every day, that most folks are sound asleep early in the evening (me included)
Day Six, September 12th, 2005; Santorini, Greece,
Casual
Day Seven, September 13th, 2005; Day at Sea,
Formal Day Eight, September 14th, 2005; Naples, Italy; Informal
I had heard that getting to Pompeii on the train was fairly easy, so I set out to find the train station in Naples that would serve Pompeii. After walking for almost two hours, here is what I found.
Before you debark your ship, go to the top floor and scan the city of Naples to find this church spire. If you look into the bay you will see it sticking above all of the other buildings. This church is very near to the train station. Here is how you get there.
Leave the cruise terminal and walk all the way through the parking lot to the road that fronts the terminal and circles around the harbor. Turn right and start walking along the sidewalk. The road will eventually merge with another road and make a major thoroughfare in Naples fronting the harbor area. The entire walk will take approximately 25 minutes. After the road merges with the other, you will see clearly see the church spire pictured above. You will need to cross the road all the way to the other side. The road contains several medians that must be traversed to get completely to the other side. Continue walking until you come to the small square that the church resides in (pictured above)
After you pass the church, you should turn left at the very next street (pictured above) Note that one of the street car lines also turns left, as well.
The train station is on the right (pictured above). Note that the main train station in Naples is located at Garibaldi Square. You could catch the Pompeii/Santorini train from there, but this is the station that it originates from. I had originally planned on going all the way to Santorini, so I purchased a round trip ticket that allowed me to get off where ever I wanted for 6 euro. I suspect that the round trip fare to Pompeii alone was probably around 3 or 4 euro. The train isn't all that clean as it is clearly a commuter train for the local residents. It makes approximately 30 to 35 stops between Naples and Santorini and the Pompeii stop is just about in the middle of the run. It takes about 30 minutes from the time that you leave Naples to arrive at the Pompeii station.
When you see this sign, it is time to get off the train.
You will disembark the train on "Track A" which puts you right in front of the train station. Simply walk through the train station onto the road and turn to your right. The entrance to Pompeii is about 100 yards further down the road past the vendors selling all types of Pompeii stuff for the tourists.
The vendors offer self guide books of Pompeii, which is probably the best way to go if you are on a budget. There are also many other souvenirs available.
Gaining entrance to Pompeii requires that you purchase an admission ticket. The current fare to get it is 10 euro. This gives you entrance to Pompeii only. If you want to join a guided tour, there are several guides forming tours before you actually go into the park. They work on a gratuity basis, so be aware that they are not included with your ticket. There are also audio devices available that you can rent from the park. Unless you are keenly interested in finding out every detail of life in Pompeii before it was buried in ash and mud almost twenty centuries ago, you can do just fine with a guide book and on your own.
The thing that I had forgotten since my last visit to Pompeii was just how huge it is. After trying to penetrate its ruins for almost an hour, I was glad that I had decided to cancel the Sorrento portion of my plans. One can easily spend an entire day here and enjoy every minute of it.
It had been ten or so years since my last visit and I was surprised by the amount of work that had been done in excavation.
It is almost impossible to fathom how sophisticated the Pompeii population had been. Swimming pools, lush gardens, running water, baths, beautiful architecture, Pompeii is just stunning.
Here is a shot of the north entrance to Pompeii. This is the way you will enter it from the train. Be aware that there is another entrance and if you exit there, you will be far from the train station. Make sure you come back through the north exit.
I took hundreds of pictures and stayed way too long enjoying Pompeii and would highly suggest that you not miss the wealth of history. It will simply astound you. While I was going to continue to Sorrento, I had spent entirely too much time exploring Pompeii and decided to simply return to the train station and walk more of Naples shopping streets. I barely got back on board and changed for dinner in time for the pre-dinner show. Since I had seen the evening's performer on a couple of other occasions, I watched a couple of her numbers and then decided to hit the Internet Cafe for another frustrating session before going into dinner. Dinners were becoming my favorite time of the day, as this group was having so much fun with one another. I was in bed quite early.
Day Nine, September 15th, 2005; Civitavecchia,
Italy, casual
Day Ten, September 16th, 2005; Livorno, Italy,
Formal
While Livorno lacks the tourist infrastructure that Florence offers and does not have the same quality of sights, it is a very wonderful city well worth your investigation.
Livorno is built on the harbor and is very much an active port. It features a large fishing fleet and an abundance of commercial activity. The ocean has been tapped for the canals that reach inland and penetrate much of the city of Livorno giving it Venice Like flavor.
One sees fish markets along the harbor and also on the side streets that abutt the harbor. The fishing fleet is huge and I suspect that fishing is one of the larger industries Livorno enjoys.
One of the first things that I noticed was the colorful nature of Livorno's businesses and people. The fisherman all looked like something out of a movie and the businesses (like this bar) were completely unique. This particular bar was overgrown by some vine. It looked like someplace Earnest Hemingway would hang out.
The canals seemed to pop up everywhere and there were tons of private boats inhabiting them. It was a very peaceful morning without a lot of activity, even though it was a Friday morning. I decided to head into the downtown area just off of the harbor and was treated to an incredible surprise.
One of the main roads in Livorno turned out to be a fabulous shopping street with covered stores on both sides of the street for several blocks. It was reminiscent of shopping in a fine mall in Southern California, as many of the same stores were located here. Anyone would certainly find enough shopping here to satisfy their wants and needs. There were many jewelry stores, clothing shops and boutiques, name brand chains from all product categories and simply an abundance of quality merchandise. The tiled sidewalk and wonderful sidewalk enclosures gave it that much more of a classy feeling. When folks say there is no shopping in Livorno, I wonder what they were thinking?
Once out of the main shopping area, Livorno opened up many side streets with specialty shops offering unique products and goods. I came across a wine store that I entered and was blown away.
This seems to sum it up for Livorno; underestimated and unappreciated. I have been in wine stores all over Europe, just about the last place I would have expected a wine store of this quality would have been in Livorno, what a huge surprise. Excellent prices and a wonderful selection was the rule in this store.
The woman that had been giving Livorno such high marks kept referring to the "outdoor market" as having excellent prices, but she was disappointed that she had spent all of her euro and that they wouldn't take any dollars. Folks, she is absolutely right. Just about everything under the sun was available in this market that stretched for blocks.
Between the outdoor market and the shopping streets, one could easily spend a full day shopping here and never find all of the stores. I suspect there are some real interesting shops to boot. I saw one men's shoe store that I was going to visit in the afternoon because they had the color shoes that I really liked. Unfortunately, I couldn't find it again.
I was having a ball following the canals when I stumbled upon a real treasure
Housed in a huge building that stretched an entire block was the central market place in Livorno. I am not sure how many stalls it contained, but it was huge. I saw, meats, fish, poultry, wines, oils, fruit, produce, plants and flowers. It reminded me of Pikes Market in Seattle only obviously much older. The central market alone was well worth the visit to Livorno and everything else is simply a bonus.
So my suggestion to you would be to explore Livorno if you have already done Florence and want something a little less touristy. I think you will like what you find. I lingered in Livorno way too long and was one of the last people back on the Millennium. I dressed in a hurry in time to make it to our group photo and cocktail party before dinner. We enjoyed another wonderful dining experience before attending the evening's show "I Love the Nightlife". I slept so soundly. Day Eleven, September 17th,
2005; Villefranche, France; Casual
Nice is a wonderful city to visit. While many of the smaller ships can gain entrance into Nice's commercial harbor putting Nice within walking distance, many more larger ships anchor in Villefranche, France leaving the independent traveler with the problem of getting to Nice if that is there choice of destinations. Here is exactly how to take the train from Villefranche to Nice and return.
As you get off the tender at the tender wharf in Villefranche, you will see the train station as pictured above. It is in an unlikely place as there doesn't seem to be anywhere for the train to go from the station. That is because it arrives and departs Villefranche through tunnels. Note the location of the train station from the tender wharf and then depart the port and follow the harbor around to the beach area.
As you make your way into the beach area, you will pass this restaurant. The stairs to the train station are tucked behind the restaurant just past the last building.
As you climb the stairs, take the tunnel to the other side of the train tracks and then continue your climb until you see the train station.
You will need to purchase your tickets before you board the train. If you are also planning on visiting Monaco on the same day, I would suggest buying a Villefranche - Nice roundtrip ticket and a separate Villefranche - Monaco roundtrip ticket. The total fare for both tickets is under 8 euro. The price to visit Nice is under 4 euro, roundtrip.
Once you have your ticket, you must go back under the tracks to the other side of the platform as the Nice train stops there. Be aware that it only stops for a short period, so don't make the mistake of not being on the platform ready to board.
Be aware that the train makes several stops in Nice. The stop that you want is the second stop from Villefranche. At any rate, the sign above is the station that you want to disembark the train at.
You may want to check your return schedule (or the schedule to Monaco if that is your next stop) before you depart the train station. From the train station, take any of the streets in front of it towards the ocean (away from the train station. The station is located about 12 to 14 blocks from the ocean and the area right around the station seems somewhat seedy, but is actually safe enough.
You will see signs on almost every corner. Follow the Promenade des Anglais signs and they will lead you to the beach. Once you have arrived at the beach be aware that everything is to the left of you.
If you walk to the left you will come upon a wide street that runs perpendicular to the rest of the streets. This is Avenue de Verdon. If you walk up the avenue, it will cross many streets to the left. This is the designer district where you can find top clothing labels and stores.
On the right hand side of Avenue de Verdum is a large park. Be sure to check out the old Merry-go-Round. If you continue to parallel the beach (but a block in from it) you will see Rue St. Francois de Paule. This is one entrance to the historic district and is the street where the Opera House and public markets are located. From here, you can entertain yourself for hours, as the historic district opens up all around you.
If you have no idea where you are when you emerge from the historic district, you can simply hail a taxi to take you back to the train station. The best bet is to walk it and see if you can find it on your own, but if you are pressed for time taxis are readily available. I then made my way back to the train station and boarded the train to Monaco.
Monaco is one of those places that you simply must see during your lifetime. It defies description. Its wealth and architecture is simply awesome.
Some ships port right in the heart of Monaco, but they tend to be the luxury lines. Most of us will anchor in Villefranche and tender into the Villefranche tender wharf.
As you get off the tender at the tender wharf in Villefranche, you will see the train station as pictured above. It is in an unlikely place as there doesn't seem to be anywhere for the train to go from the station. That is because it arrives and departs Villefranche through tunnels. Note the location of the train station from the tender wharf and then depart the port and follow the harbor around to the beach area.
As you make your way into the beach area, you will pass this restaurant. The stairs to the train station are tucked behind the restaurant just past the last building.
As you climb the stairs, take the tunnel to the other side of the train tracks and then continue your climb until you see the train station.
You will need to purchase your tickets before you board the train. If you are also planning on visiting Monaco on the same day, I would suggest buying a Villefranche - Nice - Villefranche ticket and a separate Villefranche - Monaco - Villefranche ticket. The total fare for both tickets is under 8 euro. The price to visit Monaco is under 4 euro, return. To catch the train to Monaco, simply purchase your ticket and step outside onto the platform. This is the right side of the tracks for Monaco.
Once the train arrives, board and then take the ride past some of the most beautiful scenery you are likely to see during your cruise. Your train may make a few stops, but look for the above sign to get off in Monaco.
Once the train stops you can disembark the train. Depending on your game plan, there are two ways to exit the terminal. Note that the train terminal is several hundred feet below the surface of the Earth.
If you head towards the front of the train and up the escalator (pictured above) you will then take an elevator up to the upper train terminal. This is a good choice if you want a great view of Monaco's various areas from high up in Monaco..
If you head towards the rear of the train, you can take the tunnel with electric walkways to the lower levels of Monaco. This is the best choice if you are planning on actually visiting the various sights in Monaco. The tunnel will deposit you quite near the old train station and only a block or so from the center of town.
There is a visitor information center on the right hand side as you exit the tunnel and this is a great place to pick up a tourist map to start exploring Monaco and its many sights.
If you turn left at the very first street after exiting the tunnel, you will see the steps that lead up a hill on the right hand side of the street (pictured above). These will lead to the "Rock" which houses the Palace, cathedral and aquarium among other wonderful sights mentioned in the main review of Monaco.. If you turned left at the crosswalk instead of heading up the hill, you would enter the downtown area, marina and port and the road that leads to the Royal Casino in Monte Carlo. All of the sights are within walking distance from the train station. However, if you have trouble climbing hills, make sure you have the person working in the tourist office show you where the various lifts and escalators are. Finding your way back to the train station is quite easy. Make sure you note the train schedules so that you arrive in time for a train as there are no facilities on the train platform. I took the train back into Villefranche and enjoyed the village before taking the tender back to the Millennium. I met some from our group for cocktails before heading into dinner in the Metropolitan Restaurant. I was quite surprised that as many folks attended dinner in the restaurant since the Millennium was not scheduled to leave until midnight. We had a great time and then decided to attend the evening's late show, the Celebrity Variety Showtime. I slept like a baby, tired from the full day.
Day Twelve, September 18th,
2005; Barcelona, Spain; Casual
Day Thirteen, September 19th, 2005;
Barcelona, Spain; Casual Ask a Question About Celebrity Cruise Lines
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