Celebrity Cruise Line
Millennium Cruise Review
South America

Nancy Norris
Age: Baby Boomer
Occupation: Travel Professional
Number of Cruises: 40+
Sailing Date: February 19th, 2006

Introduction:
Visiting Carnival in Rio has been at the top of my wish list of travel adventures for a long time. What a rush to be given the opportunity to fulfill my desire. Cindi, one of my very close friends, and I would be joining a group of travel professionals on the Celebrity Millennium for a 14 day cruise that would include 3 days in Rio during Carnival.

Cindi and Nancy Stuck in Cleveland, Ohio

We began our journey in Cleveland, Ohio with a planned pre-night stay in Buenos Aires (one of my favorite cities). Well, that was not to be! Our February 17th, 3:07 PM flight to Dallas/Fort Worth had been cancelled. After waiting 45 minutes in line and spending 50 minutes at the counter with an American Airlines agent to no avail, we were going nowhere. We would need to return the next day and try again. The airline did provide us with overnight accommodations at an airport hotel and dinner and breakfast vouchers for our inconvenience. Since we are both “glass half-full” ladies, we decided to make the most of the situation and pretended to be in some exotic location enjoying the first night of our vacation. We arrived at the airport bright and early the next morning anticipating our new flight plan. Unfortunately, once again our plans were foiled. We sat on the runway for almost an hour before the pilot informed us that this flight would be going NOWHERE as the plane had mechanical problems. So, we filed off the plane and hoped for a miracle. We were able to secure the last 2 seats on an afternoon flight to DFW that would hopefully connect us with our plane to Buenos Aires later that day. (Due to predicted ice storms in Dallas, this was definitely NOT a sure thing.) After a 6 hour wait at the airport, we finally boarded the plane and took off. Once we arrived in DFW, we discovered that our plane to Buenos Aires was delayed. Now, we were beginning to think that this trip was doomed. But, all good things come to those who wait and the final leg of our journey was underway. I have always been a firm believer that at least 1 night pre-cruise in my port of departure is a necessity, but this experience has made me re-evaluate that plan. If you are traveling great distances or have a desire to tour the departure city, I strongly suggest you build in a minimum of 2-3 days pre-cruise. (It is definitely what I choose to do in the future.)

Pre-Cruise (Buenos Aires):
We arrived in Buenos Aires at 9:30 AM, secured our luggage, quickly made our way through immigration and hired a remiss to take us to the hotel where we would meet some of our other traveling companions that had better luck getting to Buenos Aires than we did. Since we were unable to board the ship until after 2 PM, we stowed our luggage with the porter of the Melia Buenos Aires and ventured out for a short walking tour.

Cafe Tortoni

Since Cindi had never been to BA, we decided to begin our tour on Florida Street and wound our way to Café Tortoni near the Plaza de Mayo. Sine 1858, the oldest café is BA has been a favorite with artists, writers, dignitaries and intellectuals.

Nancy and Cindi in Cafe Tortoni

For a glimpse into Argentina’s glorious past, this is definitely worth a trip. After a bit of shopping, we returned to the hotel, gathered our luggage and headed for the cruise port via taxi. We would have to save touring the rest of this enchanting city until the Millennium returned at the end of the cruise in 14 days.

Embarkation:
We did not arrive at the port until about 7 PM, but there was absolutely NO line and we proceeded directly to check-in. Having completed our pre-registration online, the process was speedy and effortless. We were then directed to one of the buses that would transport us from the terminal to the ship. Depending on where your ship docks, you will either walk to the ship, or as was the case for us if you are docked at one of the more remote piers, be transported by bus. We were greeted with the complimentary glass of champagne and proceeded directly to our respective staterooms.

The Grand Foyer

First Impressions:
Contemporary design coupled with both Art-Deco and Old World touches make for a stunning combination. The ship is attractive and exudes an understated elegance. The tortoise shell onyx stairway in the Grand Foyer, an eclectic mix of art placed throughout the ship, stunning open spaces with floor to ceiling windows and the light wood touches mixed with rich furnishings all work together to make the Millennium a very classy vessel.

Cabin 8064

My Cabin:
We were assigned Cabin 8064, a Concierge Class verandah stateroom mid-ship on the starboard side. The décor of light woods, soft pastels and stylish furnishings are appealing and provided a welcoming invitation to my stateroom. While the rooms are not huge, at 191 sq. ft. they are certainly larger than many and a floor to ceiling mirrored wall across from the beds makes the room appear even more spacious.

Cabin 8064

Upon entering the cabin, there is a double full-length closet on the right-hand side that easily held all of our clothes for this 14 day cruise. Behind a third door there were 5 drawers with additional shelving above them. A room safe occupied one of the shelves. A mini-fridge is located behind a cabinet door that also has another drawer for additional storage. An interactive television sits atop the cabinet. The 2 twin beds in the center of the room were comfortable, had rounded corners and high enough to store our luggage underneath. Each bed was flanked by a nightstand with two small drawers and an adjustable tabletop light. The telephone had caller ID and voicemail. Next to the beds there is a large sitting area with full size sofa and glass-top coffee table. A desk occupies the opposite wall. Hiding behind two cabinet doors on each side of the desk are two additional shelves. Full-length sliding glass doors lead to a 41 sq. ft. balcony that has 2 chairs and a small table.

The bathroom was adequate. There is full shelving with doors underneath the sink. There is a hair dryer on the wall next to the sink with a body lotion dispenser next to it. (By the way, Concierge Class staterooms come equipped with an additional hair dryer that is found on one of the shelves in the desk area.) There is a shampoo dispenser in the rectangular shower. Concierge Class staterooms are equipped with special showerheads providing excellent pressure. The one major flaw in the shower configuration is the cloth shower curtain that likes to cling to your body while you shower.

The Millennium

The Ship:
Key Staff on the Millennium:
Master Captain – Apostolos Bouzakis
Chief Engineer – Petrakis Konstantinos
Hotel Director – Garry Abbs
Staff Captain – Zisis Taramas
Cruise Director – Simon Weir

The Millennium recently underwent a refurbishment, but other than some minor enhancements, there were very few noticeable changes to any of the public space that I could see. Let’s explore the Millennium together by beginning our tour at the bottom of the ship and making our way upwards. Deck 2 (Continental Deck) is completely occupied by guest staterooms.

Celebrity Theater

The forward area of Deck 3 (Plaza Deck) is the location of the lowest level of the tri-level Celebrity Theater; however, there is no entrance to the theater on this deck. These seats are accessible via the entrance on deck 4. Acoustics and sight lines are excellent and the banquette seating is quite comfortable. Moving aft a large portion of Deck 3 is reserved for passenger cabins until we arrive, mid-ship, at the Grand Foyer.

Guest Relations

Guest Relations, the Bank, the Concierge and

The Shore Excursion Area

Shore Excursion Desk are all located here.

The Entrance to the Olympic Restaurant

Aft of the Grand Foyer on the port side is the Olympic Restaurant.

The Olympic Reswtaurant

This specialty restaurant is adorned with original French walnut panels from the MS Olympic, sister ship to the Titanic. The atmosphere and presentation make for a superb dining experience.

The Cinema

The aft portion of Deck 3 on the starboard side is the location of the Cinema and

The Conference Center

Conference Center along with additional break-out meeting rooms.

The Metropolitan Restaurant

Taking the aft stairs to Deck 4 (Promenade Deck), we find ourselves at the lower level of the main restaurant, the Metropolitan Restaurant. The décor of this two-level dining venue is a mixture of art deco with modern touches. Coupled with the full length windows that line the back wall, the Metropolitan provides a sophisticated and elegant environment for dining.

Rendez-Vous Lounge

Moving forward, we enter the Rendez-Vous Lounge. A nice size dance floor surrounded by comfortable seating made this a very popular venue for both pre and post dinner cocktails and dancing.

Celebrity's Internet Cafe

As we continue to move forward towards the Grand Foyer, the Internet Café, “Celebrity On-Line” is on our starboard side. (Beware that connections can be slow and can be quite costly.)

Fortunes Casino

Continuing forward we find ourselves at Fortunes Casino. It offers all the requisite gaming tables and a variety of slot machines. It appeared to be quite popular during this cruise, and although it is not overly large, it never seemed to be overcrowded.

The Photo Galllery

From here, a fairly large open area serves as the Photo Gallery.

Michaels Club

On the port side of the Photo Gallery, is the entrance to Michael’s Club. The dark woods and plush furniture arranged in pleasant conversational configuration of this piano bar make this an inviting and appealing spot to enjoy your favorite libation. It is one of my favorite public rooms on the ship. The Celebrity Theater occupies the remaining portion of deck 4.

The Emporium

The forward stairs to Deck 5 (Entertainment Deck) lead to the upper level of the Celebrity Theater or if we move aft, the Emporium can be reached by both the port and starboard halls. Numerous duty-free shops and boutiques line the walkway offering logo items, liquor, cigarettes, clothing, jewelry, perfume, sundries and souvenirs.

The Art Auction

Before we exit the Emporium area, there is a small alcove that is the location of the onboard art and wine auctions. (Wine auctions are another of Celebrity’s new offerings that are designed to increase onboard revenue – personally I would take a pass on this option.)

The Cova Cafe

Continuing aft through the Emporium we enter the Cova Café Milano & Patisseria, mid-ship surrounding the Grand Foyer below.

The Patisseria

The coffee/wine bar is located on the starboard side and tasty pastries are served daily at the Patisseria port side. Although there is a charge for the specialty coffees, the tempting desserts are complimentary.

The Card Room

The Card Room is actually an annex of the Cova Café. This was one very popular spot on this cruise. Bridge lessons and games took place there on a daily basis.

The Platinum Club

Skirting the top level of the Grand Foyer, we enter the Platinum Club. The Platinum Club is actually 2 bars that are the balcony level of the Rendez-Vous Lounge below.

The Martini Bar

The Martini Bar is on the starboard side and the Champagne Bar is on the port side.

The Upper Floor of the Metropolitan Restaurant

Both offer comfortable seating and are great spots for pre-dinner cocktails as the entrance to the upper level of the Metropolitan Restaurant is directly aft.

Deck 6 (Penthouse Deck) and Deck 7 (Vista Deck) for the most part are relegated to guest staterooms. I mentioned at the beginning of this ships tour that there were some minor changes to the Millennium’s public space when it underwent its most recent dry-dock. Two such changes occurred on these decks.

The Computer Classroom

The two-story music library known as Notes located mid-ship has been replaced by the Online@Celebrity computer classroom on deck 6 and an

Acupuncture at Sea

Acupuncture at Sea Clinic on deck 7. There were numerous and varied computer classes offered during this cruise and every class was well attended. I know that the acupuncture clinics are one more way that the cruise line has found to generate additional onboard revenue. While it seems “gimmicky” to me, it will be interesting to see if there is merit in this onboard amenity in the long run.

Space on Deck 8 (Panorama Deck) and 9 (Sky Deck) is also utilized for staterooms, including a large number of Concierge Class Cabins.

Words

The only public space on these decks is “Words”, a very attractive and well stocked 2 story library located mid-ship directly above the computer classroom and acupuncture clinic.

As we explore Deck 10 (Resort Deck), we will begin at the aft fantail.

Fantail Dining at Ocean Bar

This is the al fresco dining area of the Ocean Grill and Café. Early morning breakfasts are exceptionally pleasant here. The Ocean Bar is located here which also makes it an excellent place for watching the sunset or sipping on an early evening cocktail. Moving inside, we find the Ocean Grill section of the Millennium’s buffet restaurant. The area is set up with a number of different venues.

The Ocean Cafe

Rather than the typical hot food buffet line one finds on most ships, Millennium offers a good number of choices. The rearmost buffet is set up as a waffle station during breakfast along with a nice assortment of fruit and other toppings. During lunch, sandwiches are made and offered along with an excellent salad bar. From 6:30 – 9 PM nightly, this area is converted to a sushi bar with a wide range of choices for those who enjoy that particular fare. Moving forward, each side of the Ocean Grill offers an omelet station in morning for breakfast and then it becomes a pasta station. The port side of the Ocean Grill is converted into the alternative casual dining spot from 6-9 PM. Regional specialties or a selection from the ding room menu is served table-side. A suggested gratuity of $2 per person is recommended. Moving forward further, we come to the Ocean Café, the main buffet area of the Millennium. The Ocean Café offers four buffet lines. While the buffet lines offer the same fare at all four stations for breakfast, during lunch one of the buffet lines features a different ethnic menu each day while the other three lines serve the same traditional luncheon fare. The Riviera Grill, outside of the Ocean Café is the pool dining venue. Hamburgers, hot dogs, fries and pizza are served from noon until 6 PM.

The Millennium's Pool Area

Now we come to my favorite space on the ship, the pool area. There are two salt-water swimming pools and four Jacuzzis. The lounge chairs on this level featured thick, comfortable cushions. The Pool Bar lies on one end of the pools and a stage is on the other. I usually enjoy the musical entertainment performed poolside, however, on this cruise I found it to be quite invasive. The speakers were cranked up to full throttle and the music was much too loud. It was totally impossible to carry on any kind of conversation when the entertainers were on stage. While this decibel level is fine at the disco, it was definitely not pleasant for lounging at the pool.

The AquaSpa Thallasotherapy Pool

Continuing forward we find ourselves at the Aqua Spa. The signature of this beautiful solarium-like space is the thallasotherapy pool. Water stations around the pool offer water massages and dual “racks” on opposite sides of the pool provide rods to lie on while soothing bubbles relax your muscles. Two salt-water Jacuzzis (reserved for adults only) complement the pool and comfortable chaise lounges surround the space.

The Aqua Spa Cafe

Top it off with the Aqua Spa Café serving healthy choice breakfasts and lunches and it is the perfect place for adults to rejuvenate their spirit. Forward of the Aqua Spa lies the Aqua Spa treatment area and fitness center.

The Aqua-Spa Annex

There is a full beauty salon, an aerobics and exercise room with excellent Cybex equipment and the Persian Garden relaxation room. The balance of the area is for massage and spa service private treatment rooms.

Cosmos Nightclub

Taking the forward stairs to Deck 11 (Sunrise), the first place we visit is Cosmos Nightclub. Cosmos serves both as the ship’s disco and its observatory lounge during the day. Surrounded with floor-to-ceiling windows on three sides this large space provides spectacular views. Couches and chairs are spread throughout the lounge in small conversational settings around a large dance floor. Even when the nightclub is crowded, the space has been well-utilized to provide a feeling of spaciousness.

The Tower

As you exit the nightclub the entrance to the Tower is on our port side. This doubles as the Floral Shop and a relaxing Conservatory. It looks very inviting, but other than very limited floral shop hours, the area was locked and unavailable to guests.

The Tower's Main Floor

I am not really sure what the deal with that space is all about, and I was unable to get an acceptable answer from any of the Millennium staff when I asked. As we move aft, we encounter the jogging track and the Mast Bar. Seating is available on both sides of the bar. Continuing aft, we get our first glimpse of the pool area located below on deck 10.

Deck 11 Deck Chairs

The traditional row of lounge chairs circumvents the pool balcony.

Extreme Sports Bar

From this upper pool deck, the first door we come upon is the entrance to the Extreme Sports Bar. If you are a sports aficionado, a number of televisions are well-positioned around the bar to provide good viewing for sporting events. The golf simulator is accessed from the Extreme Sports Bar as well.

The Fun Factory

Moving aft past the shuffleboard courts we eventually make our way to the very aft of the ship and the entrance to the Children’s Fun Factory and Video Zone.

The Fun Factory Interior

There were very few children onboard this sailing so I didn’t even see any children using the children’s pool and slide during our cruise.

Shuffleboard Anyone?

Deck 12 (Sports Deck) is actually two separate spaces (one aft and one forward). The forward section of Deck 12 is another large sun deck area with ample lounge chairs. Also, in this forward section is a staircase that leads to Deck 13 and the Millennium’s topless sunbathing area.

The Millennium's Sports Court

The aft section of Deck 12 has a full-size basketball court. There is also a moveable net that can be used to transform the basketball court into a tennis court.

Food and Service:
I detail the various dining options in my travelogue, but in general I found the food to be good to excellent. I would rate the food at the breakfast and lunch buffets as good and food for dinner in the main restaurant excellent. Dinner menus were themed, varied and always offered at least one choice of red meat, white meat, poultry, seafood, a pasta dish and vegetarian and healthy choices. The waiters at my assigned table (502) Vasilica and Handar were exceptional.

Zanna Miranova, The Best Wine Stewardess on the Seven Seas

A particular treasure was the wine stewardess, Zanna Miranova. Phenomenal is the word that comes to mind! She was always bubbly and cheerful, yet extremely efficient and competent. I have never had my wine service handled so proficiently or presented so joyfully. Kudos Zanna, you made every dinner meal a special occasion! (Ed's Note: I wholeheartedly agree, Zanna is AWESOME!)

Room service was prompt and food was freshly prepared. This may have been due to fact that the Room Service galley was right across the hall from us, but, no matter what the reason, it earned a definite “thumbs up” in my book. Concierge Class staterooms have an extended breakfast menu from which to order, which included eggs cooked to order, pancakes, French toast, breakfast meats and much more. I definitely took advantage of this added perk.

As for stateroom service, it was inconsistent. My friends in three different cabins assigned to three different stateroom attendant teams had impeccable service. On the other hand, Cindi and I had a very sweet cabin attendant and pleasant assistant, but they were not as competent and accommodating as our friends. They tried hard, but there appeared to be a language barrier. Often there was no follow-through on our requests, but I came to believe that this was due to a communication breakdown and not a lack of intent. We adjusted, but had we been more demanding guests or had a higher level of expectation, this could have become quite troublesome.

Entertainment:
Diverse is the best way to describe the entertainment. Sustained, an accapela group, were awesome! Their harmonies were always a special treat. Pepe de Jose was very popular on this cruise as he played Latin guitar music with a real flair. He kept guests at the pool area on their feet and was particularly entertaining in the Cova Café. Coco Band was a duo that performed dance music and shared venues with Centerfold a more contemporary dance band. They performed for pre-dinner crowds in the Rendez-Vous Lounge and at the disco in the evening. Centerfold also had their share of sessions at the pool. Julio Urbana played piano music at Michael’s Club. We had enjoyed him on other Celebrity cruise ships and this cruise was no exception. Jacqueline Dolan was a talented harpist that entertained at dinner, as did the Scherzando Quartet. D.J. Constantine and the Celebrity Orchestra rounded out the staff musical entertainers. The Celebrity Singers and Dancers were a talented, well-balanced group that complemented each other. The production shows themselves were okay, but not spectacular. A multitude of special guests and performers provided our evening entertainment and I speak more specifically about those entertainers within my travelogue.

My Travelogue - The Cruise:
Day1 (Sun / Buenos Aires, Argentina):
The ship was scheduled to depart at 11 PM, so dinner this evening was open seating. We met others from our group for a cocktail at Michael’s Club and then enjoyed our first meal in the Metropolitan Restaurant. After an excellent prime rib meal, the group headed back to Michael’s Club for a final nightcap. All of us had sailed on the Millennium in the past and had already identified Michael’s as our favorite late night venue. Since I did not have a very good night’s sleep on the plane, by now I was exhausted and looked forward to retiring for the evening.

The Millennium Docked in Montevideo

Day 2 (Mon / Montevideo, Uruguay):
I must admit, it was quite difficult to rouse myself from bed this morning and I spent an extra hour lounging before I was actually ready to venture out. I was not impressed with Montevideo the first time I visited, so I was not anxious to begin any touring. Fortunately, the ship did not arrive in Montevideo until after 10 AM, so a leisure beginning to the day was appropriate. Had it not been that this was Cindi’s first visit, I may not have even gotten off the ship.

Colorful Mercado del Puerto

Janet (one of my California cruise buddies), Cindi and I got off the ship at 12:30 and walked to the Mercado del Puerto (one of the spots I had not seen on my last visit). Located across the street from the entrance to the port, this lively market is primarily a spot for checking out the locals and visiting one of the many cafes.

Mercado del Puerto

After some limited bartering with the locals for crafts and trinkets, we found an excellent outdoor café to share a bottle of wine and soak in the local flavor. Before returning to the ship, I found a local Internet Café to catch up on my e-mails. (At $.75 a minute onboard this was a high priority at each port of call). The weather was beautiful, so I spent what was left of the late afternoon at the pool. Since the ship had set sail late the night before, the mandatory lifeboat drill was scheduled for today at 6 PM (GROAN!). I know this is a requirement, but it is still one of my least favorite cruise activities. After the drill, I took a quick shower and changed for the hosted cocktail party for our travel professional’s group at 7:30 PM in Cosmo’s Nightclub. It was always great to connect with old friends and meet new members. We were assigned late seating dining and normally that is what I prefer. However on this cruise, late seating was not scheduled until 9 PM. As the cruise wore on, I found that this later seating time made a huge difference in how we would spend our evenings. The group found their tables on Deck 5 (upper level of the dining room) near the rear of the ship by the windows. We had arranged for round robin seating for dinner, but on this first night I sat at Table 502. How fortunate! We were treated to excellent service by our waiter, Vasilica, and assistant waiter, Handar. Not only were they competent, conscientious and efficient, but their personalities were delightful. They could not have been more accommodating to the group. A few of us decided not to attend the “Welcome Aboard Show” at 11:15, but chose to congregate at Michael’s for a nightcap before retiring. (Hmm, perhaps you can already sense a cruise pattern developing).

Day 3(Tues / At Sea):
Ah! It was a beautiful morning, and one of the great pleasures of a verandah stateroom is breakfast on the balcony. As this was a Concierge Class stateroom, the breakfast menu was quite extensive. Add to that the fact that the room service galley was across the hall from us and our fresh, hot breakfast was a treat. The first of our seminars at sea was scheduled for 9 AM this morning in the conference center. It was quite enlightening and the time quickly passed. Upon completion of the seminar, I met Cindi at the pool and began my afternoon sun reverie. By afternoon the sun had taken its toll, and I chose to take a quick nap in preparation of the evening ahead. Tonight was the first of our three formal nights. A group of us had decided that we would take advantage of our Concierge Class staterooms and host some pre-cocktail gatherings (tonight would be the first). After appetizers, wine and conversation we proceeded to the dining room. This evening I was treated to an outstanding meal of tournedos of beef and the same excellent service as the night before. Most of our group chose to attend the Captain’s Gala toast followed by the first of the production shows, the world premiere of “I Love the Nightlife”. As I had not seen this performance before, I found it quite enjoyable. (One of the downsides of cruising as much as I do is that I have seen many of the production shows and guest performers on previous cruises.) A few of us lingered in the theater after the performance chatting and before long we found ourselves alone with the doors of the theater closed. I had mentioned that our later seating affected our evening activities and this was a prime example. The show did not begin until 11:15 and by the time we left the theater all of us were tired and headed directly to our cabins.

Day 4 (Wed / At Sea):
I awoke early to another beautiful day of sun and blue skies. I took advantage of the opportunity to enjoy an invigorating early morning jog on deck, followed by a cup of coffee on the open deck of the aft fantail at the Ocean Café. These early morning quiet times are some of my favorite moments on a cruise. By 9 AM the deck chairs were beginning to fill, so I woke my roommate so that we could select a perfect spot to spend the day. I had already decided that this would be a day of total relaxation. While Cindi flitted from lounge chair to computer class, to tango class, to enrichment lectures, I spent the entire day gloriously soaking in the sun. Tonight a group of us decided to meet at the Champagne Bar before attending the Elite & Select Captain’s Club cocktail party. Dinner was once again quite pleasant with good food, good service and stimulating conversation. This evening’s entertainer was Judy Kolba, and although she is quite talented, I have had the pleasure of hearing her on two previous occasions. However, since we had not yet ventured to the disco, a group of us decided to dance off some of the calories we had been consuming thus far. While we had heard that it had been quite lively every evening, tonight happened to be quieter than normal. Apparently, most of the disco crowd was on deck participating in the Latin night under the stars. South Americans love to dance; and since they made up well over ½ of the passenger load on this cruise, there was quite a bit of dance action onboard.

The Town Square in Portobelo

Day 5 (Thur / Portobelo, Brazil):
We were scheduled to tender in Portobelo at approximately 9 AM. As Elite members we had priority tender tickets which meant we were able to leave the ship as soon as the ship had been cleared. Those of us who were going to venture off together arranged to meet at Michael’s Club at 9:30 AM, where we were provided a ship’s escort to the tender station. We were onshore by 10 AM and took one of the complimentary shuttles from the pier to the center of town.

Cindi and Nancy in Portobelo

The town itself is not much more than an overgrown village, but the surrounding area offers great beaches and dive spots. After a quick tour of downtown, we found a taxi to transport us to Bombinhas, considered by many to be the best beach in the area.

Bombinhas Beach

After a very harrowing taxi ride, we were dropped off unceremoniously at Bombinhas. (Imagine your life flashing before your eyes and being within a nano-second of death.) We spent an hour, or so, on this attractive, but very crowded beach and then planned to make our way to the Trail of 4 Ilhas on foot. Well, this is one of those fine examples of where the information on the Internet is not totally accurate. By all accounts, this was a nice coastal walk. NOT!

Quatro Ilhas

Fortunately, we were given directions for our 2 km hike to Quatro Ilhas from a local vendor. The beach, however, was quite worth the trek. It was much less crowded, and we discovered an absolutely fabulous seafood restaurant on the beach to enjoy lunch (Casa do Camarão). After a short walk on the beach we decided to check out the beach walk between 4Ilhas and Praia Mariscal (supposedly the surf beach in the area). Okay, once again the information the Internet provided was a bit misleading! There was a walk between the two beaches, but it was a hilly road over some rough terrain and quite a bit longer than we had been led to believe. So, the restaurant staff graciously called a taxi and we finished the rest of our tour of the area. We made it back in plenty of time for the last tender to the ship at 4:30. In fact, we even had enough time to do a bit of souvenir shopping in town. We enjoyed a drink at the Cova Café onboard before I took a nap to prepare for another evening of activities. At dinner, a number of us lingered over coffee and dessert before we decided to give the disco another try. This was 50’s and 60’s night, and this evening the disco lived up to its reputation as a “happening spot”. After some serious dancing, I retired to my cabin totally exhausted!

Day 6 (Fri / At Sea):
This was another of those wonderful mornings that I chose to order room service for breakfast before our second seminars at sea. Today, the dialogue was exceptional and travel professionals were given a sample of what the future might hold. Needless to say, the presentation led to much speculation an interesting exchange of ideas. No matter how often I attend these seminars, I never fail to walk away with a new thought. Some of the group met after the seminar to further explore the ideas that were shared. After some lengthy discussions, I made my way to the buffet for a light lunch before finding a spot at the pool for some late afternoon sun-time. Once again, I chose to take a short nap in preparation for the evening. This was to be a full night as it was the second formal night. Or group photo was scheduled for 7:15 and the Captain’s Club Cocktail party was being held in Cosmo’s Nightclub at 7:45. From there we made our way to dinner and on to the second of the Celebrity Singers and Dancers production show, Fantasea, with the adage duo Dominique and Clarisse. While this show was well received, personally I preferred the first performance. I joined a couple of the group members for a final nightcap, and then made my way to my stateroom to prepare for my day in Buzios.

Day 7 (Sat / Buzios, Brazil):
WOW!!!! This was one port that completely took me by surprise. I found this charming, picturesque beach resort totally enchanting. I would have gladly foregone our port of call in Portobelo to spend the night here. I can certainly understand why this is “THE” beach resort for the affluent citizens of Rio to spend their week-ends. This was another tender port and our priority tender tickets once again served us well.

The Three Fisherman and the Millennium at Anchor

We began by taking a stroll along Orla Bardot, the cobblestone promenade that leads from the tender pier to the center of town,

admiring the bronze statues of Brigitte Bardot and Fishermen. Rua das Pedras, the main street in town, is lined with chic boutiques and quaint bars, restaurants and cafes.

Downtown Buzios

After doing a quick tour of the town (we were planning to return later that afternoon), we hired a water taxi to take us to João Fernandes, one of the most popular of the 24 beaches that line this tiny town. Restaurants line the beach offering complimentary beach chairs and umbrellas.

Recanto do Sol

We chose a table and chairs in the sand in front of Recanto do Sol. Even though it was a bit early, based on a recommendation, we gave in to temptation and ordered some fresh shrimp. Mmmm, tasty! I would have gladly spent the day here, but our task of taking pictures for Port Reviews and the promise to meet others in our group in town later that afternoon required us to move on. We secured another water taxi to drop us off at Azeda Beach. From there, we took the footpath to Ossos Beach and on into the center of town.

Buzios Shopping

After a bit of “connection confusion”, the group gathered at Chez Brigitta for lunch. Since I had gorged myself on shrimp earlier, I was not hungry. But, those in the group that did order lunch were quite impressed.

More of Buzios Shopping Opportunities

It is a charming restaurant attached to a B&B along the water’s edge. In addition to good food, they offered a nice wine selection and the afternoon flew by quickly. We were inundated with a heavy rain on our way back to the tender pier. When we reached the tender pier there was quite a long line. Not wanting to wait in the rain, we stopped at a small bar at the foot of the pier. Coincidentally, the owner of this tiny establishment turned out to be a young man that had relocated from Columbus, Ohio. Another example of how small our world really is! We caught the last tender back to the ship. Not quite ready for the daytime activities to come to a close, we met others from our group for the “SailAway Party” poolside. I was able to sneak in a short nap before getting ready for the evening. We chose to pass on the pre-dinner concert by pianist Hyperion Knight and met some friends at the Rendez-Vous Lounge for a pre-dinner cocktail and dancing, followed by another great meal. Being that we had made arrangements for a tour guide to pick us up at 8:00 AM tomorrow morning, I chose to retire immediately after dinner.

Day 8 (Sun / Rio de Janeiro, Brazil):
I had eagerly anticipated this part of my cruise, and I must admit that Rio turned out to be both less than I expected and more than I had imagined. That statement should be made clear as I describe my next 3 days.

Our Tour Guide in Rio, Marcelo Esteves

I had made arrangements online before the cruise with Luis Amaral Tours for a private tour for 3 for $55 per person on our first day. Since this was Carnival, we had been advised to begin our tour by 8 AM in an attempt to avoid the congestion, traffic and crowds that were a given at this time of year. We were greeted as scheduled by a very personable and charming young man, Marcelo Esteves. He spoke excellent English and immediately made us feel welcome and comfortable. As we walked to the car, we discovered that he was going to be in the Samba Parade that evening as one of the thousands of participants from the Porcela Samba School. He modeled the headdress of his costume before we began our tour. What a great decision to begin our excursion early! We quickly made our way to our first stop, Corcovado.

The Corcovado Train

As we were in a private car, we were able to drive all the way to the entrance of the steps to the Christ Statue at the summit. (Those on ship’s tours must take the train from the base.) WOW! It is impressive to say the least.

Statue of Christ on Cocovado

We were able to capture some great photos and had time to sample some fresh squeezed juice from local fruits.

The View From Cocovado

We had completely managed to avoid the long lines and hordes of visitors, as was evidenced by what seemed to be an unending line of vehicles making their way up the prominence as we made our way down. Our plan was to drive through Tijuca Forest and on to the southern beaches of Grumari and Prainha with a stop for lunch. While we had not planned to visit Copacabana or Ipanema today, Marcelo chose to provide us with brief drive-bys on our way to the beaches in the south. Our trip was quite pleasant to this point. However, as well orchestrated as the first part of our tour began, it was here that things began to go awry. Discovering that we were “beach people”, Marcel!o thought we might enjoy the scenic route to the southern beaches rather than taking the highway. Well, big mistake!!! Once we hit the Barra Beach area traffic was at a standstill and there was no end in sight. There was absolutely no way we were ever going to make it to our intended destination and the much anticipated beachside lunch at Prainha or Bira de Gauaratiba. Marcelo suggested we scrap our plan and retrace our route back to Copacabana Beach where he knew a great churrasco restaurant. Churrasco is a Brazilian barbecue tradition. In addition to a full buffet, endless rounds of various cuts of meat are served tableside. This is most definitely a feast that is to be experienced at least once while in Brazil, but it just wasn’t quite what we had in mind for our day.

Sugarloaf

After this lunch extraordinaire, we made our way to the final destination of our planned itinerary, Sugarloaf. By now it was about 3 PM and this tourist venue was extremely crowded. Had I known what was awaiting me, I would definitely have taken a pass on this excursion. We stood in line to get tickets.

The View From Half Way to the Top of Sugarloaf

Then we stood in line to take the cable car. Once we finally reached the top (or so we thought), we took some great photos of the surrounding area, only to discover that we were only midway to the top. Another very lengthy line awaited us to take another cable car to the peak.

View of Copacabana From the Top of Sugarloaf

Once we finally did reach the top, the views were not much more impressive than those at the first level. Not to mention that it was SO crowded, it was difficult to move AND there was one of the most extensive wait lines I have ever encountered to take a cable car back down. PURE AGONY!!!! Once we got to the midway point, I do credit Marcelo for knowing a short cut and we found ourselves at the front of the line to take the second cable car to the base. Personally, I do not like to pay to be tortured. My recommendation: if you do not arrive very early before the crowds amass, avoid this tourist trap. I do not believe the cost is worth the experience. It was after 6 PM when we returned to the ship and a nap was definitely in my future. A group of us had decided to check out the local street Carnival scene later that evening, but as the evening unfolded our plans were altered. For various reasons the group dwindled to only 3 (Cindi, Janet & me). After some serious consideration, we decided that taking off late at night on our own without a clue of what to expect or where we were going was unwise and also opted to stay onboard. Unfortunately, the late change in plans left us scrambling for dinner. Dinner this evening was open seating from 6 – 9 PM, and it was well after 9 o’clock when we decided to remain on the ship. We managed to satisfy our hunger with pizza, did a bit of dancing and made the best of our night.

Copacabana Beach

Day 9 (Mon / Rio de Janeiro)
Today was beach day. We had planned to spend the day exploring both Copacabana and Ipanema Beach.

Fabulous Copacabana Palace

After enjoying a pleasant breakfast at the buffet, a few of us grabbed a taxi and set off for the day’s adventure. It was a beautiful day and we walked the length of both beaches. We then found one of the many outdoor cafes that line Copacabana Beach for a late, leisure lunch.

Ipanema Beach

We returned to the ship so that we could take the requisite nap in preparation for the very late night ahead of us. A trip to Rio for Carnival is incomplete without attending the Official Carnival Samba Parade in the Sambodromo.

Carnival in the Sambodromo

This 2 night event is the highlight of Carnival, and seats to the event are highly coveted. I had done some Internet research before the trip and successfully scored tickets online. (At a substantial savings from the cruise lines tickets I might add.) We had intentionally purchased seats in one of the non-tourist sectors in order to garner the true flavor of this Brazilian experience. Each night 7 Samba Schools are scheduled to perform with the first school stepping off at 9 PM. Since the Parade lasts throughout the night and into the morning, we had been advised to arrive about 10 PM.

One of the Floats

So it was that 7 intrepid souls departed the Millennium at 9 PM. Now, there are specific taxis that have access to the main gates of the Sambodrome. Unfortunately, when we arrived at that taxi station there were no taxis available. We decided to go forth into the evening and grab 2 street taxis. BIG MISTAKE!!!! They dropped us off on a dark and narrow street in the vicinity of the Sambodrome, but nowhere close. As we walked with trepidation towards our destination, one of the members of the group managed to flag down another taxi. This was quite fortuitous as one lady in the group was elderly and in frail health. The walk was taking its toll and she was close to exhausting her reserve of energy. Since there was only 1 taxi, the group split up. I was relegated to the taxi and off we went for chapter 2 of the evening’s adventure. Well, once again this was a taxi that did not have access to the main gates. After several failed attempts that required circumnavigating the entire city via freeways, side streets and alleys we finally made our way to the proper entrance of our sector of the Sambdrome.

Carnival

It was, however, well worth the effort. This event is INCREDIBLE!!!! The elaborate floats, exquisite costumes, colorful pageantry and the infectious energy that flows through the stadium make for a most memorable experience. This spectacle is definitely on my list of “must-do’s” if you are ever in Rio during Carnival. At 2:00 AM, we had watched 3 of the Samba Schools perform and by now were totally exhausted. I must applaud those that stayed for the duration, but we decided to make our way back to the ship. This time, we secured one of the authorized radio taxis and our trip to the pier was MUCH less eventful than our harrowing experience getting there.

Day 10 (Tues / Rio de Janeiro):
Even though I had returned quite late last night, my internal clock was working as usual. The morning began with rain and dreary skies, so I thought it may just be a good day to relax on board. However, by 10 AM the skies were blue, the sun was shining and my urge to hit the Rio beaches one last time was too strong to ignore. I managed to find a “beach partner” and we made our way to Copacabana. Tom was going to jump ship today, as he was scheduled to depart on an Oceania Amazon River cruise in order to cover those ports for Port Reviews. So, a group of us had decided it would be nice to join him for a luncheon farewell at the Copacabana restaurant we had discovered the day before. We had a good time sharing details of everyone’s adventures of the last couple of days; and before we knew it, it was time for the group of us to say good-bye to Tom and return to the ship for the remainder of our cruise journey. Cindi and I sat on our balcony and said our good-byes to Rio as the ship set sail for Buenos Aires at 5:00 PM. After a very short nap, I prepared for dinner and our evening activities. Dinner was once again excellent and conversation was quite lively. Due to overnighting in Rio, the last two night’s dinners were open seating service. It was interesting listening to others Rio excursions and sharing the experiences. Mark Donoghue was the guest entertainer this evening, but a group of us decided to make our way to the disco instead. We did manage to even make an appearance at the Latin Party and tropical fruit buffet poolside later that evening. Another great day was had by all!

Day 11, 12 & 13 (Wed, Thu, Fri / At Sea):
By now, my sea days had taken on a similar pace and routine. Therefore, rather than be redundant, I have chosen to write one journal entry for these 3 consecutive days at sea. The weather was beautiful all 3 days and I made sure to take advantage of it poolside. I divided my time between morning power-walks on the jogging track, lounging in the sun, relaxing in the hot tub, taking pictures for this review and meeting with other agents from the group for one-on-one follow-up sessions to the Seminars at Sea.

The Millennium's Poolside "Sorbet Parade"

I thoroughly enjoyed the mid-afternoon treat of being served sorbet poolside by the parade of waiters each afternoon. Since our last day of the cruise was going to be spent overnight in port, the Millennium scheduled the Parade of the Crew poolside in the afternoon on the last sea day. This was a very nice touch and a pleasant way to cheer the staff that had worked so hard to make this cruise memorable.

The Crew's Farewell Wishes

All in all, a perfect way to spend lazy days at sea! While I spent most of my time in respite mode, Cindi took advantage of the many scheduled enrichment lectures and activities. There were Spanish classes, book reviews and discussions, Photoshop classes, naturalist, art and history lectures, bingo sessions and wine-tasting. As Elite members of the Captains Club, we attended the “by invitation only” galley tour and backstage tour. Others from our group chose to play bridge, go to the daily movies, attend the various fitness classes and do some duty free shopping onboard. There was certainly not any shortage of options to keep ourselves busy on these days at sea. The highlight of the second of these three days at sea, was our “private mimosa brunch”.

The Mimosas Party

Since we had yet to consume the champagne we had received in our staterooms at embarkation, a group of us decided to pool our resources and gather at the aft fantail dining area of the buffet at 11:00 AM. This allowed us the opportunity to sample both the breakfast fare and the luncheon offerings while sipping on our mimosas. It was great fun and one of those unplanned memories that truly define a cruise. Late afternoon power naps followed my daytime routine before preparing for our evening activities. Various members of the group met for pre-dinner cocktails, conversation and/or dancing each evening. Dinners continued to be both social and culinary treats that I thoroughly enjoyed. Wednesday evening many of us gathered at Cosmos Nightclub since it was 70’s Disco Night. Jacqui Scott was the evening’s guest performer, but since I had been entertained by her on a previous cruise, I made my way directly to the disco. Some serious dancing helped alleviate some of the numerous calories I had consumed thus far as we boogied through the night. Thursday was the last of our three formal nights and Classique, a Musical Odyssey was the production show offering. I had an opportunity to also see this show on a recent cruise, so I ducked out early and made my way to bed. While I slept the evening away, others from our group chose to check out the midnight Grand Buffet.

Day 14 (Sat / Buenos Aires):
Having missed our touring opportunities pre-cruise, Cindi and I were up early and anxious to disembark as soon as the ship had been cleared. Armed with our copy of The Golden Map we were planning to do our own walking tour of the city. This free map is available at tourist centers and hotels throughout the city and is the perfect companion for anyone wanting to see Buenos Aires on their own. We had originally planned to walk from the port to our first destination, but were discouraged to do so by the numerous taxi drivers waiting at the port. While we were trying to decide if this was a legitimate warning or just a ruse to garner passenger fares, a couple came rushing back into the gated port area accompanied by a port security guard. They had just been mugged and the woman had suffered a head injury. Decision made! Apparently this area is somewhat isolated and not the safest place to be walking. However, there are numerous free shopping shuttles available at the port and taxis had very reasonably priced fixed rates to destinations throughout the city.

The Recoleta Cemetery

We decided to take a taxi to the furthest destination on our itinerary (Recoleta Cemetery) and gradually make our way back towards the port area. It was an absolutely perfect day for touring, sunny and warm but not too hot. We thoroughly enjoyed wandering amidst the labyrinth of walkways lined with elaborate mausoleums and ornate monuments as we searched for the Duarte family tomb where Eva Peron rests.

The Alvear Palace

Following our “Golden Map”, we explored this fashionable upscale boutique district as we walked along Avenida Alvear window shopping our way to the Alvear Palace Hotel. This opulent hotel is perhaps the most exclusive in all of Buenos Aires and worth a trip inside. From there we made our way to Avenida 9 De Julio, the world’s widest boulevard.

The Obelisco

We strolled down this amazing boulevard to the Obelisco. This 221 ½ ft. tall monument is visible from a distance. Continuing on to Avenida de Mayo, we turning left and wandered passed Café Tortoni on our way to Plaza de Mayo. We were so glad we had chosen to visit the café on our short pre-cruise adventure as today the café was packed and there was a very long line of customers waiting to gain entrance. We spent some time at Plaza de Mayo, the square where grieving mothers of the desaparecidos (the disappeared) kept vigil during the country’s “Dirty Wars”.

The Pink Palace

At the eastern end of the plaza is Casa Rosada, the Presidential Pink Palace where Eva Peron would greet the masses from the balcony. The President no longer resides there, but rather a portion of it has been converted into a museum worthy of a peek. By now we were getting quite hungry a bit weary so we went in search of a sidewalk café.

Shopping on Florida Street

We ended up back along Calle Florida and found what we thought looked like a promising spot. Big mistake! Service was virtually non-existent and the food itself was mediocre at best.

Tango Dancers on Florida Street

But, we made the best of the situation and decided that since we were, after all, on the pedestrian shopping street we would end our day’s tour by shopping! We found lots of bargains and were loaded with bags of “goodies” as we secured a taxi to return us to the port.

We had a rather big night ahead of us planned, and knowing that it would be a late evening we needed to tackle the task of packing to go home before we left the ship. Once we finished, we both agreed we needed a short rest before preparing for the evening.

Dinner at Lola's

The Concierge onboard was able to make reservations for our small group at Lola’s (an excellent restaurant I had dined at on a previous visit to Buenos Aires) and at Bar Sur.

Bar Sur Tango Dancers

This very small, intimate tango bar was also visited on a previous trip, and personally, I believe this is the best way to experience a tango show. I was anxious to give Cindi a taste of the Buenos Aires I had come to fall in love with on my first visit. We had a wonderful time and became another of those special memories that are treasured long after the cruise is over. All in all, an excellent port day!

Disembarkation:
Being both an Elite Captain’s Club member and occupying a Concierge Class stateroom we had priority disembarkation luggage tags. We did not actually need the service on this particular cruise since our flight was not scheduled to leave until 11:00 PM in the evening. While we were in no hurry to debark, we still had to be out of our staterooms by 8:00 AM. As is my standard last morning ritual, we met for breakfast in the main dining room and I ordered my traditional eggs benedict meal. Unfortunately, the service was sp-par and my eggs were cold and tasteless. After breakfast, we made our way to the gangway and were able to walk off the ship without any problems. We found our luggage in record time and grabbed 2 taxis to transport us to the hotel.

Post-Cruise (Buenos Aires):
Since we had planned to make the most of our last day and did not want to spend our time at the airport or babysitting our luggage, Cindi, Jerry, Janet and I had made hotel reservations before leaving home. As all we needed was a place to store our luggage and clean-up before boarding our plane, we chose a bargain hotel centrally located off Florida Street. Bargain is the key word! It definitely served the purpose, but would have provided a very uncomfortable overnight experience. While Janet and Jerry rested, Cindi and I grabbed our Golden Map and completed the tale end of the walking tour we had begun the day before.

The British Clock Tower

After visiting the Clock Tower, the train station and Plaza San Martin we slowly made our way back to the hotel doing a bit of shopping along the way.

Enjoying Lunch at the El Caminito Restaurant

We picked up Janet at the hotel and took a taxi to El Caminito in LaBoca. What a wonderful way to complete our trip! It was a beautiful sunny afternoon and we wandered through the craft market, poked our heads into the colorful boutiques and shops and stopped at one of the pedestrian walk cafés for lunch.

Nancy Dancing the Tango

What a treat to enjoy a luncheon steak, excellent wine and be entertained by the street tango dancers that perform for tips. I can only imagine that this vibrant and energetic neighborhood is even more fun in the evening. The day drew to a close much too quickly, and it was time to venture to the airport. We arrived over 2 hours before our flight, unfortunately, the airport was a nightmare. The check-in line was horrendous and had it not been for the fact that our flight was delayed by hours, we would have missed our plane.

Misc. Comments:
--There were 3 formal nights, 4 informal and 7 casual nights. Also, due to the itinerary, 3 nights (the first night and the 2 in Rio) were Open Seating for dinner.
--Internet onboard is relatively expensive. Minutes are available at 4 different rates: $.75 per min. with no package / 100 minutes for $70 / 200 minutes for $120 / 500 minutes for $250. Package minutes are charged-up front and no refunds are given for unused time. There is laptop access in each stateroom using your laptop and a Connect@Sea kit which is $10 per day + the cost for minutes as per the rate packages already mentioned.
--As a side note to the above mentioned Internet service, it is much more cost and time efficient to utilize the Internet Cafés in port.
--After having completed this itinerary, I would suggest Celebrity consider a way to extend the port call in Buzios. This is one port that begs to be explored at night and an overnight here would definitely be an added bonus.
--The mid-ship elevators are located on the port side of the ship which is a bit confusing at first, but once you get your bearings they actually provide less congestion and a good traffic flow.
--Typically the passenger load on cruises of 14 days is an older demographic. This was not the case on this cruise as there were many passengers in the mid 20 to 40’s age group.
--English speaking passengers were definitely in the minority, but the South American populous kept the ship moving at a lively pace – they LOVE to dance!

Millennium's Elevators

Overall Impression:
This is one itinerary that I would repeat in an instant. Overnights are wonderful in any port and the fact that this one stayed in Rio during Carnival was exceptional. The ship was easy to navigate due to its design, lengthy promenades and 14 well-positioned elevators. The Millennium has clean, simple lines, yet is well appointed with rich furnishings and diverse art resulting in a very resort chic atmosphere that I particularly enjoyed. This Celebrity experience was one I will remember for a long time. I would not hesitate to recommend both the ship and the itinerary.

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