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Steve Johnson
Age:
66
M/S Veendam, Eastern Caribbean Nov 24 – Dec 1
Embarkation/Disembarkation:
Departed Houston, TX for Fort
Lauderdale the Friday after Thanksgiving. We arrived at the airport two hours prior to departure. It
took about fifteen minutes to check in and go through security. Security changes are mostly
cosmetic. There’s no difference in handling of checked luggage. The same security guards are on
duty as before 9-11, but an occasional National Guard troop has been added to the scenery. Major
difference is that security guards realize that passengers are entirely intimidated and can be
easily bullied about. Guards undisguisedly enjoy barking at people, telling them where to queue. The
guard on the security X-Ray takes a little more time viewing carry-ons, and no hand checking of
anything is allowed. Photo IDs are required everywhere, but no one takes a really close look; flea
market IDs would likely do. The airline personnel are still courteous and friendly. At Port
Everglades, vehicles must go through security gates to enter the port area. Guards briefly scan
documents. Although we went through, I’m still not sure if they required photo ID or boarding
documents. They seemed too bored to care, either way. Boarding the ship was the usual slow process,
bogged down by the photographers. Here too, photo IDs are required. A photo ID is required at all
times when leaving or entering the ship. This means you carry a minimum of four cards: Personalized
ship’s ID, Room key/card, photo ID, and a credit card (or similar) for the room safe. No, the
ship’s ID won’t work for the safe because there’s no data in the card’s magnetic strip.
Since we had a 12N return flight, and being obsessively paranoid, I badgered the poor girl at the
front desk until she gave me a ‘first off’ disembarkation number. Every passenger on board must
clear immigration before anyone can leave the ship when disembarking from a non-sequential United
States port, in this case our homeport. All had cleared by 8:30AM, and we were at the airport nearly
three hours before our flight time! We were early enough that it once again took only about fifteen
minutes to get through to the boarding gate. However, a little later I looked out and saw an awful
long line waiting to go through security. So, reading newspapers and drinking coffee until it was
time to board the aircraft trumped standing in line(s). The guards seem to love forming and
reforming snaked lines, periodically barking at the cattle (previously known as customers) to
“line up over there. No, not there, there!” I wouldn’t resent the officious attitudes so much,
if these folks were properly trained and background screened for the job, and if the security were
truly improved vis-à-vis European airport procedures. Having said all that, the security changes
have resulted in limits to carryon luggage, a major enhancement for comfort and convenience.
The Veendam:
The fourth of the Statendam
class ships, the Veendam is in excellent condition. There is no sign of wear in any of the public
areas. The cabins, too, are equally well maintained. For those not familiar with HAL’s ships, the
public areas are concentrated on two decks, plus the Lido. Except for The Crow’s Nest, a large
viewing lounge forward on deck 12, the other lounges are on the upper promenade deck, which is
dominated by the casino. The largest of these lounges is The Ocean Bar, which specializes in small
dance bands and the music is mostly swing, waltz and cha-cha. The Explorer’s Lounge regularly
offers an evening fare of classical style string quartets. The Crow’s Nest has late night disco
offerings. There’s also a small piano bar. Occasionally, and during some sail-a-ways, there is a
band on the lido deck, so there’s a little something for everyone. The San Juan sail-a-way
featured a steel band on the aft deck pool area, a great place to watch the nighttime departure from
San Juan and Fort Morro. A saxophone led the steel band, and, so help me, they played a Glenn Miller
number. Yes, even in The Caribbean, Holland America is for the older set. The Wajang Theatre, a full
screen cinema, offers current films and the ever-popular fresh popped popcorn. The show lounge is
large with two seating levels and has good site lines. However, the majority of the seats are
uncushioned barrel chairs, real back killers. The show offerings are two major variety shows with
full cast, and an assortment of magician, comic and juggler acts the other nights. There are also
the ubiquitous art auctions, normally conducted out of the way in the Ocean Bar. Unfortunately, the
silent auction littered the Java Café and atrium areas with its prints. This litter seems more
appropriate for the parent company, not Holland America. The Java Café is a favorite offering, at
no extra charge, espresso, cappuccino and properly brewed regular and decaf coffee during daylight
hours. You’ll always find a tray of freshly baked cookies and often a side table of pastries or
hors d’oeuvres. You’ll also find a fitness center, internet café (which offers unlimited use
for $99.95), beauty/massage spa, photo gallery and an assortment of boutique shops. For children
ages 5-17 Holland America offers Club HAL, which provides a full schedule of activities during sea
days. Although there were few kids on board this cruise, the Club HAL director carried through with
the games and crafts, even when only two or three children were in attendance. A special soft drink
package can be purchased for $17.50 for 14 soft drinks. This is not an unlimited “soda card”,
and according to front desk personnel can only be used at the bars, which rules it out for children.
The dining room is large and comfortable, the service always outstanding. There is no alternative
restaurant on The Veendam; however, the Lido buffet offers an excellent option to the main dining
room. The Lido buffet’s ice cream bar is open throughout the day, and again during midnight snack
time from 11:30PM-12:30AM. There are two formal nights during which most gentlemen wear suits. We
saw maybe 25-30 percent tuxedos. The emphasis is on formal night. The great majority of passengers
adhere to the dress code throughout the evening. The food was absolutely the best I’ve experienced
on a cruise ship, or for that matter in many restaurants. From appetizer through dessert the
emphasis was on quality and presentation. All of the seafood entrees were fresh and properly cooked.
Amazingly, the meat entrees were always served to order. Medium rare came to the table medium rare!
I don’t know how they accomplish that for 600 guests at each seating, but they did. The standard
cabins are very comfortable. Outside cabins are large at 197 sq ft, the inside cabins are only
slightly smaller at 186 sq ft. The verandah suites, aka mini-suites, are a roomy 284 sq ft including
the balcony, which occupies 63 sq ft. The stateroom TVs offer live CNN and TNT and an array of movie
channels, mostly current releases. There is a self-service laundry on each cabin deck.
The Crew and Staff:
The service staff are all
either from The Philippines or Indonesia. The dining staff is entirely Indonesian. Every one of the
staff personnel is required to attend a Holland America training school before serving on board.
This preparation is apparent in their extraordinary proficiency. Their gregarious and friendly
nature, though, is a result of culture and upbringing. They are absolutely delightful people. Be
sure to attend their crew shows. They’re the best afloat. And please don’t stiff them. Holland
America’s policy is tipping not required, but you ought to compensate them as you would the staff
on any cruise line. Most of the crew on The Veendam is British, including Captain Jonathan Peters,
who could double as the cruise director. He’s very smooth and humorous, characteristically
British.
The Ports:
First stop, Half Moon Cay,
Bahamas, 8AM – 4PM, the only tender port. Due to reported high winds, which were not in evidence,
all water sport excursions were cancelled. So there was no parasailing, diving, fishing, kayak
adventure, banana boat ride – not even the glass bottom boat. There was, however, a lovely powdery
sand beach and crystal clear water. Water “toys’ are available for rental, and a barbecue lunch
is served up beachside. The far end of the beach area is designated for snorkeling. You can snorkel
there, but all you’ll see is a sandy bottom and the very occasional rogue fish. In a so far
unsuccessful effort to attract fish, Holland America has placed what appear to be large upside down
strawberry planters throughout this portion of the bay.
Day three, San Juan, P.R., 8AM
– 12M. The ships dock directly in Old San Juan, which retains much of its historical Spanish
heritage and architecture. There are a number of attractions here, including the popular El Morro
Castle. If you follow the ‘walking tour’, it’s recommended that you taxi up to El Morro, and
walk downhill from there. On your return, take a rest stop in one of the plazas and enjoy a cup of
excellent Puerto Rico coffee from the small kiosk there (NOT Wendy’s or McDonalds). In addition to
the many attractive historical sites, there are numerous shops. Do not miss “The Butterfly
People”, within easy walking distance from the ship. Their displays are unimaginably beautiful.
The butterfly gallery exhibits a number of artistic arrangements sealed in Lucite boxes, and all for
sale. But, beware; this place will do serious damage to your pocketbook. You can sample their work
at http://butterflypeople.com/. The ship offers a number of tours. The most popular are the
rainforest excursions. You can choose either a driving or walking tour. Each takes about 4-½ hours.
Since we lived in Puerto Rico for a few years while serving in the USAF, we had previously traveled
most of this region. We just wandered Old Town, shopped, and made a huge donation to The Butterfly
People - irresistible. Finally, know that no one may go ashore until the ship has been cleared and
US immigration has seen everyone on board, whether going ashore or not. Naturally, since this was
the first US port, a number of passengers delayed disembarkation for more than an hour.
Day four, St. Thomas, USVI,
7AM – 5PM. Unfortunately, swells were extremely bad and roiled up the bottom, so the
diving/snorkeling trips were called off. We were on The Champagne Catamaran. Since snorkeling was
impossible, the boat’s captain decided to take us to a beach on Greater St. James Island. He’d
never visited this beach before, and for the sake of future passengers, he should never go again.
The beach is extremely rocky, very small and the bottom of the bay covered with sea grass. It was a
totally disagreeable location. With all the beautiful beaches on the US Virgin Islands, we went to
this piece of garbage. Although, the Mimosas and snacks were ok, the trip was a dud. But wait,
Nassau is about to make up for it all. You can easily take independent beach trips at St Thomas.
Taxis are plentiful, and there are ferries between St Thomas and St John where you’ll find the
best diving/snorkeling beaches. If you want a beach experience sans snorkeling, Magens Bay is
probably your best and most convenient choice. Since St Thomas, also a US port, immediately followed
San Juan, it was not necessary to clear immigration.
Day six, Nassau, Bahamas,
12:30PM – 6:30PM. What a great diving/snorkeling location. Here too the swells had limited the
dive trips, but our boat captain took us to sheltered ‘Angelfish Reef’ where we enjoyed a
magical coral garden and hundreds of fish. Only at Roatan Bay have I enjoyed such a variety. This
was absolutely marvelous. The water was so crystal clear I was able to get a number of great
underwater photos. I can’t imagine our scheduled dive on ‘Thunderball Reef’ surpassing this
place. The water, however, was a bit cold, and without wet suit protection my torso chilled after
about 45 minutes. This trip more than made up for the two previous disappointments.
Wrap up: Despite some weather frustrations, this was a pleasant voyage with good ports. The ship is well cared for and is a comfortable size, 55,451 tons 1,266 passengers. It is easy to transit, and offers many places to relax. A major negative worth mentioning was the freezing cold water in both pools, making them virtually unusable. The Jacuzzis were also too cold. However, since the pools were suitable only for penguins and a tablemate from Pennsylvania, the Jacuzzis got a lot of use. With barely tepid temperatures, I hope they put in lots of chlorine. We had one moderately rough sea day, and the stabilizers seemed to have little effect. There was lots of rocking and rolling. The highlights were the ship’s crew and staff and the cuisine in both the main dining room and The Lido buffet. As Chairman Kaga would say, “Haute Cuisine!” Unless you are looking for a party cruise, Holland America, our favorite by far, offers an excellent product. I not only recommend this ship, but we’ve already booked back-to-back Alaska cruises (north bound Hubbard Glacier, south bound Glacier Bay) on The Veendam for June 2002. Bon Voyage! Ask a Question About Holland America Cruises
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