Dan Lindner

Age: 48
Occupation: information technology
Number of Cruises: 12
Cruise Line: Holland America
Ship: Zuiderdam
Sailing Date: August 9th, 2003
Itinerary: Western/Eastern Caribbean

Background
We are veteran cruisers: I have 12 trips and my wife has 8. We went with our two teenage sons in August, so between the four of us, we total about six months afloat. Although we have sailed on Holland America (HAL) before, this was our first cruise on any ship as large as the Zuiderdam (we prefer the smaller upscale ships). But we had heard about the new Vista series and were curious enough to try it out. Because our busy work schedules ease up in August, we were able to book two consecutive cruises back-to-back, one to the Western Caribbean and the other to the Eastern side. We look forward to the intermediate-length cruises rather than the standard week-long fare to give us more time to unwind and enjoy the ship, and to return a sense of balance to our lives.

Embarkation
We always drive to Fort Lauderdale rather than fly because the city is so familiar to us (my uncle lived there) and we avoid the hassles of air flight. We arrived the eve of the cruise, and enjoyed a relaxing dinner and good night’s sleep before the hectic day that would follow. This time we stayed at the Marriott Marina, and found it to be cleaner and better run than other motels we’ve stayed at before in the city.

After our breakfast Saturday morning, we drove one block to the entrance to Port Everglades. After clearing the security gate, which is run by very pleasant people who are doing a very serious job, we drove over to Pier 19 to drop our luggage, park at the neighboring garage (very convenient and safe) and catch our first sight of the Zuiderdam.

And what a sight she is! Over 950 feet long, the Z is outfitted with Holland America’s well-known blue and white décor and prominently displayed nameplate. Though lacking the graceful lines of classic passenger lines, and tending toward the boxy frame of contemporary floating apartment blocks, she nonetheless is an impressive sight. The boxy frame is somewhat minimized by verandah balconies that recess a bit further with each deck, creating a stairstep appearance to her silhouette.

Checkin procedures have been significantly improved since our prior HAL voyages, more closely matching the simplified procedures of Princess and Celebrity. After showing our passports at the door, we proceeded through the standard metal detector, then across a vast room to a row of check-in desks similar to an airport lobby. This process will take some minutes, since you must present your passport a second time (it used to be several more times, so this is a small victory for efficiency) and cruise contract. You will need to fill out immigration forms, but they are available on the HAL web site for your completion well before arrival. You will also register your credit card for your onboard account, eliminating the need to do this after boarding the ship. They took our pictures for our boarding passes, and presented my younger son with his bracelet that identifies his lifeboat (in case we are separated during an emergency, the crew will get him to the lifeboat). You will also receive a pocket guide with a deck plan for the entire ship, which you will surely need throughout the week. Shoreside service was very courteous and professional, from the porters to the security personnel to the guest services representatives. All put a pleasant start into effect for the cruise.

Then it was upstairs to a waiting lounge with convenient rest rooms. Because we were in line early when the doors opened, we were in the first group to board precisely at the announced time of 11:30. This is another improvement in the process, letting people on board well before the previous standard of 1:30 so they can have more time to get acclimated to the ship and avoid the long wait on shore. We went through the customary photo shoot and crossed the gangway to experience the adventures of the Zuiderdam.

Cabin
Our cabin 1095 was an outside stateroom amidship on the Main Deck, just down the hall from the gangway where we entered. The room is standard for newer HAL ships – nearly 200 square feet in size, twin beds that combine to form a queen, very firm mattresses, many small pillows that plump up, adequate closet space for four of us to hang garments, but insufficient drawer space that creates the inevitable clutter. The sleeper sofa is also surprisingly comfortable. The living space between doorway and bed is not terribly useful in a room this size, but becomes more roomy in the suites.

The bathroom is large enough to move around, and the counter space and cabinet were more than adequate to store out toiletries. The shower provides hot water, though it will run down the curtain and onto the floor if not properly closed. It remains a mystery, however, why the electric outlets for the hair dryer are outside the bathroom – very inconvenient after a shower. Hopefully this design flaw will be corrected in a future upgrade.

Soufriano, our room steward, was a veteran of some twenty years service with Holland America and was extremely responsive and visible, not at all like some ships where the room steward becomes invisible upon departure. He fulfilled our requests for service, and even showed us how to use the remote control for the television. He was a great guy, and his twice-a-day visits were very efficient and welcome. And the chocolates on our pillows every evening were a nice touch.

Laundry service is very reasonable – just stuff all you can into a large laundry bag for $8. However, dry cleaning is no bargain compared to land prices. The lack of any self-service laundromat is a bone of contention for us do-it-yourselfers.

The Neptune Lounge is HAL’s concession to a class society – only suite guests may enter this concierge lounge and enjoy the fresh fruit and coffee, hostess, priority reservations at the alternative restaurant, CNN on the big screen TV, magazines – jut like an upscale hotel lobby.

Entertainment
The centerpiece on this ship is a three-level show room, the Vista Lounge. HAL veterans will no doubt miss the lounge tables and couches that are present in older vessels, and the flat floor level precludes tiered seating and clear sight lines. The room has pillars that block sight at a few seats, but the balcony overcomes these problems. The décor is bright red, very upbeat and not as subdued as previous HAL ships. The semicircular stage contains an elevator to raise and lower performers, and a rear entrance that is used throughout production. The three-man production crew is very professional and competent.

The entertainment we saw included magician Sam Simon and juggler Barnaby. Both were comic in their acts, and we enjoyed the chance to meet and talk with them informally during the cruise. Sam put on quite the show for us when he tried to tell our older son that he was going on curfew for some unspecified rules infraction! Both fellows are genuine people, quite warm and sincere, and a pleasure to meet.

Other entertainers included a ventriloquist who was hilarious (my 12-year-old was in hysterics) and a singer who mimicked other well-known singers in a very strong and varied voice (clearly influenced by Barry Manilow and Neil Diamond). The cast members are wholesome young adults in Bob Mackie costumes, though their singing ranges were uneven and the choreography was quite basic. In general, we found the solo acts worth attending, and lost interest in the cast shows.

Public Rooms
The Main Deck where we stayed contains the base of a three-story atrium and spiral staircase, and is a focal point of conversation and photographers. The revolving sea horse at the top of the atrium sculpture is a Tiffany crystal masterpiece that attracts attention and comments.

The Front Office and Excursion Desk are located in the central area of the Main Deck, as are several staff offices, the radio communications office and the first of eleven (by my count) bars. This bar is never very crowded and caters to stateroom guests in the early evening. As for the Front Office, I went to them a number of times with questions and issues – our biggest problem was the stripe rubbing off our room keys – and they were very congenial and helpful. The ladies who serve behind the desk are the ambassadors of the cruise line in dealing with the customers, and did a masterful job.

At the forward end of the Main Deck is a small, hidden room where kids can play arcade games in a safe and secluded area. The hallways then lead into the bottom of the Vista Lounge.

Exiting the Vista Lounge upstairs are the Lower Promenade and Promenade Decks, the center of evening social life aboard. On the starboard side forward on Lower Promenade are the Piano Bar and Sports Bar. The Sports Bar was a room to relax, smoke, and enjoy a drink while watching ESPN – the monitors are on all day. The Piano Bar is literally built around a piano, hence its name. The place is dead during daytime, and I never saw more than eight people inside while the pianist played at night. This is a lighter attendance than I’ve seen on other ships, and I suspect that it is due to the limited specialties of the pianists themselves (only Oldies the first week and Motown the second). Pianists with broader repertoires would draw more listeners and bigger bar tabs, I’ve learned.Portside across from these bars are the Casino and Northern Lights nightclub. The Casino was more packed with people than any other ship I’ve sailed before. By midnight, one can hardly walk through without bumping into happy gamblers, drinks in hand. I didn’t see many winners, just a lot of happy faces.

The Northern Lights is a high-energy discotheque with disc jockey and flashing lights all around. Teens must leave by 10 PM, when the bar opens and the young-at-heart grownups take over. Music themes vary each night – 80s one night, disco the next, 50s grease another, etc. The faux cowhide booth is a conversation piece, but a very hard seat. But then, the purpose here is to mingle and dance, not just sit and watch.

Next comes a theater spanning the ship, the Queen’s Lounge, which serves three purposes. It is a movie theater by day, however the flat surface does not provide the same atmosphere as a true movie theater. The room also holds meetings of 40-100 people. Finally, it turns into a nighttime cabaret where people can sit comfortably with a drink and enjoy a relaxed show by the HALCats, a group of four singers and four instrumentalists. They proved to be an excellent backup band on the main stage, but as an act on their own they lack spark and choreography. There was little if any dancing, and the noise could easily be heard in our room below.

The atrium area on this deck is not well utilized on the starboard side, while the port side contains an art gallery to promote the ever-popular art auction. But the gallery never drew any visitors; the best marketing draw for the auction is the free champagne! Next comes the Windstar Café, a coffee bar that is a welcome addition to HAL, bringing onboard a Starbucks-style influence with decadent (and very reasonably priced) coffee specialties and fruit smoothies. They were a hit with us, though rather underutilized by other cruisers. In time however, this idea will catch on.

The Explorers Lounge, an eternal fixture on HAL ships, hosts afternoon tea and post-dinner relaxation with the Champagne Strings, a superb trio of musicians. Like the previous areas, it is little utilized. Space management is always a concern on major cruise liners, where space is at a premium, and several fine ideas are not being exploited by the passengers on the Z. More advertising onboard may be required.

I had read complaints from previous cruisers about an insufficient number of public rest rooms. I saw no such problem, and only once in two weeks did I see even one person wait in line for a room to become available. Nor did I notice the proverbial odor of sewage or paint, as some have reported. However, shipboard septic systems do clog up on occasion, so be forewarned.

The Promenade Deck is so named because of a teakwood (not carpeting) walkway around its perimeter. This allows a complete circuit of the ship in the open air. Three laps equal one mile on this large vessel.

Inside on the Promenade Deck is the Photo Gallery, which spans the ship to ensure that passengers coming and going to dinner see the latest pictures, charge card in hand. Since the photos are arranged along the walls of the main corridor, traffic congestion just before dinner is a major problem. This problem is aggravated by the use of only one register, creating long lines for purchases. The photographers are very friendly, and their freestyle photos are a big hit with many younger passengers. However, the prices are noticeably higher than I’ve encountered on other cruise ships. If you’re willing to spend the money however, they have a machine that can impose a formal portrait on a china plate for an excellent souvenir.

One passes through the Ocean Bar before returning to the Atrium. This bar had a Hungarian duo that performed for the seniors who danced before and after dinner. The bar spreads across the ship, so some seats are physically separated and cannot see the stage or dance floor. It’s such a delight to see the older couples dance to the music here. The mixed drinks themselves are not watered down and seem reasonably priced, thought the service was painfully slow.

On the other side of the Atrium is the shopping arcade. These are specialty shops that sell logo merchandise, jewelry, alcohol, tobacco and sundries. There is no brand name clothier on board, though a tailor is present to measure and place an order for you. The shops straddle the ship, so you cannot avoid passing through and window shopping, but there is no traffic congestion here and the system works well. Patronage was reasonably high in all stores.

The library has a small collection of hardbound books, so bring your own reading material from home. At the very least, HAL could find some books on nautical history and cruising to make the selection worthwhile. The area outside the library is another underutilized, wasted space where people can hang out.

The Internet Café has a steady stream of users who maintain connectivity with the rest of the world while on board. The package deal of $100 for 250 minutes sounds steep, but one has little choice when the roaming charges between satellite cells at sea are so frightfully high. Though Internet connectivity is a necessary evil for those of us who must still read e-mail and review work documents while on vacation, the Cafe connections are much faster than the slower connections available in the staterooms. And the attendant was very knowledgeable and friendly.

The ship has three meeting rooms for about 40 people each that are used for religious services, group meetings, etc. They are not soundproof, so music from services will spill out into the adjacent hallway.

The ship’s art collection is a variety of classic sculptures and mementos from Dutch culture, as well as paintings of past HAL ships and awards to the Z herself. The colors and carpet designs are much brighter than prior HAL ships, though not over the top as you would find on Disney or Carnival.

Dining
The Fontaine Dining Room provides a sweeping view over the ship’s stern, a spiral staircase in the middle and tulip lights in the ceiling (another Dutch touch). Much was made in previous reviews of noise and vibration in the room. We felt no vibration at all, though the engine noise was very noticeable and should be resolved in the ship’s December refit.

Raymond the doorman called us to dinner each night with his strolling chimes ala the traditional hotel bellhop. Our table service by Hadir and his assistant Hance was first rate, and both were very personable and talkative. Our wine steward, Elizabeth, is a charming lady and pleasant conversationalist, though the table wines we sampled were unremarkable.

A typical menu contained several choices of appetizer, three soups (one of which was chilled), two salads, seven entrees and five desserts. The appetizers were exotic, well presented and enjoyable, and the soups were fabulous. The waiters had no problem helping me choose between two options – they just brought them both! The salads and breads were very mediocre however, and best ignored. Our steaks and seafood were prepared to our taste and melted in our mouths. Vegetables were excellent though small in portion. The desserts were decadent and easy on the pallet, though by that time it was difficult to roll away from the table! When finally able to do so, we met Raymond or Edy, who handed out figs and mints to exiting diners. Edy was well acquainted with napkin tricks and could entertain the children while mom and dad dawdled.

Prominent on the Lower Promenade Deck is the alternative Odyssey restaurant, where dining by reservation only is available for a flat fee of $25 per person. We passed on this opportunity because we enjoy the formal dining so much, but I did see the layout and it was reminiscent of a garden café with a well-windowed side and metallic furniture.

The Lido Restaurant is a buffet with all sorts of food stations – pasta, salad, hot entrees, deli, Chinese, desserts, plus tacos and burgers out by the pool. The traffic patterns are not at all congested and the lines are shorter than I have experienced on other ships. And yes, I did see stewards carry trays for the elderly – the personal touch again. Danelo prepared our eggs every morning without my asking, and was so kind to our younger son. Oh yes, the food – much better than the standard cafeteria fare, and the ice cream bar is well-attended by young and old alike, and it’s free (except for the calories!).

Topside
Upstairs is the Lido Deck, the centerpiece of daytime activity. There are two outdoor pools, one for adults to work on their tan, the other for kids to splash around. This second, larger pool has a retractable magrodome that covers it during rain. These pools aren’t for laps, just for laughs.

The Steiner spa has a staff nearly twice as large as other HAL ships, and just as congenial. It has the usual beauty salon and spa rooms, plus a hydro pool at $15 per dip, and a gym that was big enough to avoid waiting for treadmills. The fitness instructors are serious about their work, and their operation matches your favorite fitness center.

Above Steiner on the Observation Deck is the Crow’s Nest, a fully windowed room to get a view in front of the ship or take a nap. The reclining seats would have been even more comfortable had they worked (most were broken). The biggest disappointment here was the night life. A swinging place on other HAL ships, the Nest on the Z is deader than the desert. The ship had just moved the HALCats downstairs a couple of weeks before to add some zest to the Promenade area, but instead it killed the nightlife up top. Reversing this decision would seem an idea worth considering.

The Oak Room is the cigar smoking area, and the French Renaissance chair is an appealing touch. However, this is another little-used room. The stuffed chairs outside in the sun bore somewhat more presence of life, but were also largely empty.

Above the Lido Restaurant were a golf simulator for a fee, and the Club HAL meeting and game room for kids. This area is not terribly large for a ship this size, so many children’s activities are held on the Lido Deck. But the little ones were enthralled by the arts and crafts, music and games played here. And the ladies on the staff are wonderful with the children.

There is a Sports Deck topside with an observation area above the Crow’s Nest and tennis and basketball courts behind the smokestacks. Organized games draw a dozen or so persons, but the rest of the time this space is largely ignored.

Shore Excursions
The Excursion Office has a drop box for reservations, since it is only open limited hours. We only took one land tour, the dune buggy ride in Cozumel, which was great fun and well organized with courteous and professional guides. Though they appear to have dropped somewhat from prior cruises, land tours still tend to be pricey, and a fine way to blow your bank account!

Tender service to shore was a major problem our first week. Waiting times of 45 minutes were common, even in the second and third hour of service. After some loud complaints (including us), the problem magically was rectified and did not occur at all the second week, when departures were prompt and wait times down to ten minutes.

Shoreside shopping is a key element of any port call for us, and we found the Port Ambassador and his talks to be excellent, including insight on buying diamonds. We were well prepared for exploring onshore. Havensight Mall in USVI had the same deals as downtown Charlotte Amalie, St. Maarten continues to improve in shopping pleasure, and Key West has great souvenirs.

Disembarkation
The final morning is sad for the passengers and very hectic for the crew. Once Customs finally cleared the ship, the process went quite smoothly to get so many people off so quickly. Although HAL did misplace one piece of luggage (a first for us), it was located after ten minutes of hard search ashore and we were on our way home.

The Z’s passenger mix is largely middle- and upper-middle-class. It is less the traditional HAL crowd and more like Princess or Royal Caribbean passengers. I heard no complaints about the size of the ship, once people figured out where they were going, though many were clearly first-time travelers on HAL and did the inevitable comparisons with their more familiar lines of choice. HAL is clearly borrowing ideas from competitor lines to bring in more business, and is apparently succeeding if the Z remains filled to capacity, as it was both weeks we were onboard.

Since we have traveled on HAL before, the tipping policy is well understood. We enjoy discretely passing out envelopes during our last night, with artwork designed and drawn by our younger son, and see the warmth and genuine surprise on the faces of these hard-working people. We maintain e-mail contact with several stewards whom we’ve met over the years. International friendships can be made so quickly…

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