Saga Ruby Cruise Review

Mervyn Hancock
Age: 57
Occupation: Travel Writer
Number of Cruises: 9
Cruise Line: Saga
Ship: Saga Ruby
 
When companies like Clarksons and Laker Airways opened up the world to package holidays in the 60s everyone wanted to fly abroad. But MERVYN HANCOCK discovers that the best scenery in the world is right on our own doorsteps by joining a SAGA cruise which explored THE MAGIC OF THE BRITISH ISLES.

There wasn’t a dry eye in the house when the good ship Saga Ruby bade a fond farewell to the people of Killybegs, even though most of the passengers onboard had never heard of this small community in the northernmost county of Ireland.

To celebrate the visit of the biggest ship ever to dock in their harbour, almost the entire community turned out on the quayside, complete with a marching band and local officials. Children were given a day off school, and villagers organised a programme of special events to entertain us. And really, that was the pattern set for most of the destinations on a voyage called The Magic of the British Isles, organised by Saga Holidays for almost 600 people, who like me, had forgotten what a beautiful country we actually live in.

Saga, for those who don’t know about it, is an exclusive club for all those who have reached their half century and beyond, and according to statistics own about two thirds of the wealth of the nation! But I like to think of the stately ladies and gents on my cruise, as folk who have given to their country for most of their working lives, and are now taking a little back from it.

And, oh boy, do they know how to enjoy themselves! It might not (thank goodness) be Club 18-30, but eating fine foods, drinking fine wines, dancing, singing, and exploring the countryside are set about with relish by clients ranging from 50 to 90-plus. Wheelchairs, sticks and zimmer frames might be a joke to some, but don’t get in their way when the line dancing begins or the dinner gong sounds.

The ship had set off from Dover for a 13 night round-Britain voyage, which had already called in at Guernsey before I joined her in Falmouth. And with temperatures soaring into the low 30s Centigrade, passengers were able to enjoy breathtaking views of the Cornish coastline from comfortable loungers on the open decks, as we all headed out around Lands End towards my first port of call, in Pembroke.

The huge port of Milford Haven where the Saga Ruby anchored was originally founded by American Quakers as a whaling centre and can accommodate ships of 250,000 tonnes. It lies ten miles away from the town, and the cost of the cruise includes a complimentary shuttle bus at each stop.

Pembroke’s main feature is its famous castle, which has survived through nine centuries, and is the birthplace of King Henry the Seventh. This is also Dylan Thomas country – the great man was born in Swansea and worked as a journalist in London, before returning with his wife to the village of Laugharne, where his former home, The Boat House is now a heritage centre, dedicated to his life and work.

The joy of cruising is that you get a full day ashore knowing that your floating hotel is nearby, and in our case the excellent chef was preparing one of a series of feasts, which were each themed to the part of the country we were visiting. Food seems to be available in abundance at every hour of the day and night. Full English breakfasts, three course lunches, afternoon tea and cakes, four-course dinners, and midnight feasts are supplemented by 24-hour room service – and it is all included in the price. The fine wines and drinks were inexpensive too – a pint of beer cost £1-70p and most spirits were £1-40p for a generous measure!

At our next stop – the first crossing of the Irish Sea to Dublin – I chose to do a private tour of my favourite city, which I often visit for the rugby in the wonderful Lansdowne Road Stadium. Dublin is vibrant, full of excellent shops, restaurants and theatres, and of course, the finest pint of stout in the world.

If you travel north from the city itself you reach the town of Malahide – the site of one of Ireland’s oldest castles which was built in the 12th century, and remained a home until 1976. It has a finer collection of Irish furniture, and the gardens have over 5,000 species of plants and trees. The long spell of dry weather meant some difficulty getting passengers ashore in Whitehaven – a journey back across the Irish Sea into the Lake District. Formerly one of the largest ports in England, a lock leads into the harbour and while Saga Ruby was far too big to get in, the tenders were also forced to wait until high tide to drop off passengers.

But a wait in the hot summer sun was well worth the effort, and we were taken to Derwent Water, called the Queen of the Lakes, and breathtaking views of wooded countryside, which slope, gently to its shores. A tiny theatre has been built on its shores – described by Dame Judi Dench has one of the most beautiful locations in the world – and local actors entertain visitors with readings from William Wordsworth, the area’s most famous son. Back across the Irish Sea to the Western side of the island we reached Killybegs, and Yeats country. To my shame I had never heard of the little fishing village, but despite the change in the weather almost the entire population turned out to both see the ship in and out of the quayside. Most passengers were so enthralled by the picturesque houses and shops that they abandoned organised excursions and spent the day with the locals. The boys and girls from the accordion band played us away into a spectacular sunset and towards the Isle of Skye.

King James the Fifth visited the largest town of Portree in 1540 but probably the most famous story involves Bonnie Prince Charlie, who was being hunted by the English when a local girl, Flora MacDonald, hid him in her home, and eventually arranged his escape by dressing him as a maid, and taking him to a boat organised by friends on an adjoining island. “Over the Sea to Skye” is the song which originated from the story, and Flora’s funeral was the biggest ever held on the island, where you can visit her grave.

Our own voyage continued to the Orkney Islands where during the summer locals can read their books outside at 11pm and beyond, but where fierce winter storms lash the sandstone houses. Not quite as bad as Skye though! There, one such storm a chicken farmer awoke to find his business ruined. The chicken houses had been destroyed and 87,000 hens were literally blown away and never seen again! If you believe in the tale of the Loch Ness Monster, then Invergordon, our next stop was the place to be. The most scenic port in the British Isles, on the rugged east coast of Scotland, is where you travel along the banks of the Cromarty Firth to Drumnadrochit, and the deepest freshwater loch in the country. So deep, in fact, that no one has ever reached the bottom. Except, perhaps, a creature from the Jurassic Age – a monster which some say has loomed into view, and if nothing else, has boosted the local tourist industry to a multi-million pounds annual earner.

The Loch Ness Monster Exhibition is excellent value for money, and takes visitors on a journey through time, with hi-tech screens showing recorded sightings of the beast, hoaxes, and personal accounts of encounters with the legendary creature. You never get an answer to the question – “Is there really a monster out there?” The Scots, at least, hope the question will never be answered or the local economy would collapse.

Many of the passengers headed for St Andrews and the Open Golf Championship when we anchored at Dundee, but I joined the excursion to Glamis Castle, the childhood home of our beloved Queen Mother, and the birthplace of Princess Margaret.

Located on the outskirts of Forfar, the stately home of the Earl and Countess of Strathmore was the setting for the Scottish Play – Macbeth – and the wonderfully preserved rooms are a visit back to another age, and a glimpse into Royal apartments and bedrooms, a beautiful Italian Garden, and the graves of Royal pets, including dogs, cats and a hamster. I left the cruise at Leith, where we negotiated a narrow lock, and then tied up alongside the former Royal Yacht Britannia, while my fellow passengers enjoyed a day out in Edinburgh and the famous Military Tattoo. They would spend another two nights returning to Dover by sea.

Full marks to Saga for taking us all on a Magical Tour of the British Isles – an excellent itinerary and wonderful company onboard. Saga Ruby has two small swimming pools, a large ballroom, two dining rooms, theatre and cinema, sauna, comfortable bars and lounges, and well appointed cabins with television, bath, shower and plenty of storage space.

My own accommodation on the Sun Deck included a balcony, mini-bar and fridge, together with a king-size bed and dressing table.