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Moonlight, Magic and Mai Tais
Nancy Norris
TrvlJrnlst@aol.com

The dream of lounging on a crystalline sandy beach beneath vibrant blue skies, gentle waves lapping at my feet from tranquil turquoise seas, warm tropical breezes rustling through my hair as I sip on a mai tai, listening to the pleasant strains of a steel drum band sustains me through yet another interminable Northern Ohio winter.  As cold, bleak nights wear on, only to be replaced by cold, dreary days in which the only hint of sun comes from my dreams, I am counting the days until my Caribbean respite.  Eventually, days become hours, hours turn into minutes and I am finally on board the jet that will whisk me away to paradise: the southern Caribbean.

First stop: San Juan, Puerto Rico.  As my plane approaches the Luis Munoz Marin International Airport, I catch my first glimpse of a visually delightful coastline, amidst sun drenched skies and tingle with anticipation.  My adventure was about to begin.  Planning to spend a few days exploring the treasures of Puerto Rico, followed by a southern Caribbean cruise, this trip would prove to be an odyssey of diverse discoveries, magical moments and memorable experiences.  I invite you to join me, as I share the journey.

This was to be the solo portion of my tropical adventure, as I had friends that would be joining me on the cruise. For now, I was a totally free agent and looking forward to exploring Puerto Rico at my own pace, catering only to my whims and desires.  As this is a commonwealth territory of the U.S., I was able to quickly bypass immigration, claim my luggage and hail a taxi for the short ride to the Marriott Resort in Condado, my first hotel stop on this whirlwind tour of the island. Checking into my hotel mid-afternoon, I now needed to make a decision as to what I would choose to do first. Even though I consider myself a “free-spirit” of sorts, I am also a planner, and all those cold, winter nights in Ohio contemplating this journey gave me plenty of time to plan.  I knew I was going to have to maintain a tight schedule if I was to accomplish all I wanted, within the parameters of my 3 night stay. Fortunately, as a seasoned cruiser, I was well accustomed to utilizing short amounts of time wisely and to my best advantage.

Let me digress here, to share that I had been fortunate enough to visit San Juan on previous cruises; therefore, there is a definite “must-do” for the first time visitor that I would forego on this trip. However, I would like to expound on that activity for those of you planning your first visit to this fascinating city.  Don’t miss the opportunity to take a walk through the Old San Juan district. This historic seven-square-block area is a U.N. World Heritage Site that begs to be explored.  Begin your foot stroll by picking up a copy of the self-guided walking tour at La Casita, the tourist information center, located next to Pier 1 along the waterfront.  The tour includes a stroll along the promenade that lines the waterway, as well as walking on narrow cobbled lanes of blue bricks once used for ballast on sailing ships from Spain.  Along the way you can explore the two city fortresses, El Morro and San Cristobal, visit museums, mansions and churches, view monuments and plazas and even combine the tour with some excellent shopping opportunities, or enjoy a pleasant respite at one of the numerous cafes, restaurants and bars that line the streets. 

Forgive the short commercial interruption, but now back to my decision, what would be first on my agenda.  As I am an avid sun-worshipper and ocean fanatic, it was not a difficult decision. It had been a long flight, it was still sunny and warm ocean breezes were beckoning me.  Within a matter of minutes, I had donned my bathing suit, headed for the beach and was reveling in the sensation of soft sand between my toes and the warmth of the sun’s rays on my body, as I allowed my  visual and olfactory senses to drink in the ocean’s offerings.  Ahh!  This Caribbean excursion was already living up to the expectations conjured in my dreams.

 After a short walk on the beach, I opted to take a quick dip in the hotel pool and found the “swim-up” bar too inviting to resist. There, I met two interesting gentlemen from New York. I discovered that they had business clients in San Juan, so were frequent visitors.  I was invited to join them for a “happy hour”, Puerto Rican style.  Sounded like a good plan to me, after all, I was on an adventure. 

A quick shower and a bit of freshening up, found me meeting them in the lobby for what would prove to be an extraordinary evening.  We walked to the Plaza del Mercado in Santurce, an area south of Condado. On Thursdays and Fridays, the market areas close at 5 pm, but the little bars and cafés surrounding the Plaza start hopping. This is where the locals unwind and I found myself immersed in the true essence of the island spirit.  In fact, it was at one of these local haunts that I had my first Salsa lesson.  What fun!  Fortunately, my New York friends spoke fluent Spanish and many of the residents spoke English, so there was no language barrier.  The friendliness of those I met made me feel both welcome and safe. Speaking of safe, I would not suggest walking to Santurce alone, but if you are with a group, it is a pleasant stroll.  This was not on my list of things to do, but I feel fortunate to have had this opportunity to stray from the typical tourist haunts and sample the “real Puerto Rico”.

Returning to Condado, the gentlemen had already made reservations for dinner at what they promised would be the culinary treat of my trip.  Well, their promise was an understatement.  Not being very gastronomically adventurous, I was a bit reluctant to sample the Puerto Rican fare, but I was delightfully surprised.  The food and atmosphere at Ajili Mojili in Condado was superb.  Try one of their mofongo (mashed plaintains) dishes offered as a main course and you will not be disappointed!

A very enjoyable evening had come to an end, and I had already begun to anticipate tomorrow’s adventures.  I had arranged to rent a car for the next few days and planned to venture east along the coastline.  So, my new friends were off for a late night visit to the hotel’s casino, and I chose to retire to my room.

As morning light filtered into my room, I awoke refreshed and ready to begin a new adventure. I began my day with a stimulating morning walk along the beach, followed by a healthy breakfast. Now, it was time to begin the first part of my road trip.  I had heard about Piñones, supposedly a cool beachfront area east of Isla Verde and planned to check it out for myself.  Driving east along coastal highway 187, this scenic route led me to Piñones Natural Reserve, a refreshing respite from the urban environment of greater San Juan.  I enjoyed a pleasant walk along the boardwalk that carves its way through the forest.  I was treated to magnificent stretches of mangroves, sand dunes, untamed beaches and fascinating wildlife.  It was still early enough for me to enjoy a short sojourn on the beach, followed by a fun-filled lunch at the Soleil Beach Club, offering wonderful atmosphere, good food and, coincidentally, another opportunity to practice my newly acquired salsa steps.  Life truly is good, and I was so glad to be exploring just one more aspect of what I was beginning to realize was a multi-faceted island.

My afternoon was reserved for a drive through El Yunque, the only tropical rain forest managed by the US Forest Service.  Access to the park is free, and I believe a self-driving tour is the best way to explore the rain forest, at your leisure.  You can stop, as I did, and venture along one of the park’s trails for a spectacular view of La Mina Falls.  I was even lucky enough to hear the Coqui Frog sing, and I swear I caught a quick glimpse of what I am convinced was the elusive Puerto Rican Parrot. (Of course, traveling alone, I have no one to verify my sighting.)  I followed Road 191 through the forest, once again reaching Highway 3, which would take me directly to Fajardo, where I planned to spend night two of my adventure.

One of my goals was to experience the true flavor of this island.  Thus, in the spirit of discovery, rather than spending the night at a mainstream chain hotel, I had arranged to stay at the Fajardo Inn, a privately-owned country inn. One of the islands Paradores, it provided magnificent views, friendly service, a perfect location, at an affordable price.  There was still a few hours of sunlight and the lush grounds and pool beckoned for yet another opportunity to relax in paradise.  While relaxing at the pool, I became engaged in a conversation with a family that was planning a trip to Vieques the next day. Coincidentally, that was also my intent.  Our common interests led to lively conversation and I was graciously invited to join them for dinner, at the on-site restaurant.  It proved to be a thoroughly enjoyable evening and following a few after dinner cocktails, we agreed to meet the next morning for a visit to Luquillo Beach, before catching the ferry to Vieques.

Day three, and once again I woke to a bright sunny day, with the promise of discovering yet another of Puerto Rico’s treasures.  I met the family of four from the previous night, as planned, for our early morning jaunt to Luquillo Beach.  Don’t be disheartened by the giant asphalt parking lot at the entrance, this public beach is a jewel.  Lined with towering coconut palms, light colored sand glistening in the sunlight along the huge crescent-shaped beach and calm, ocean waters conjures images of the quintessential Caribbean beach.  Although quite crowded on this week-end morning, we were able to spend a relaxing few hours soaking in the ambiance, as well as the sun’s rays.  We stopped at one of the kiosks that line Route 3 to sample some traditional Puerto Rican snacks for lunch, before heading to the ferry station for our afternoon trip to Vieques. The kiosks offer everything from empanadillas (turnovers filed with meat, chicken or fish) to deep fried potato fritters.  I can highly recommend sampling my favorite, bacalaitos (cod fritters). 

   The Puerto del Rey Marina is the Caribbean’s largest leisure boat harbor, as well as the point of departure for the ferries to take visitors to the islands of Vieques and Culebra. Zoni Beach and Flamenco Beach, documented by many to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, are both on the island of Culebra.  Being a beach person, I was quite tempted to visit, but time was a commodity.  I knew I had to make a choice, and the opportunity to witness the magic of one of the world’s most vibrant bioluminescent bays was an experience not to be missed.

As suggested, particularly since this was the week-end, we arrived at the ferry terminal about an hour before its scheduled departure.  This turned out to be very good advice.  Since the ferry to Vieques was full, it actually left about 20 minutes ahead of schedule.  Apparently, it was also fortunate that I had chosen to forego a trip to Culebra, as that ferry had completely sold out very early in the morning.  If you plan to go to Culebra on the week-end, you might want to consider flying.

The 90 minute ferry ride to Vieques was pleasant, and I was able to garner a seat on the open deck to continue working on my tan.  Arriving at the ferry dock in Isabel, my Fajardo companions and I parted company.  They were planning on staying at a guest house in Isabel, and I had arranged to stay in Esperanza.  We had also made different arrangements for visiting “bio-bay” that evening.  They were going to take an escorted tour via an electric boat, and I had opted for a more “hands-on” experience and planned to kayak into the bay.

Accommodations on the island are varied and unique. Small hotels and guest houses range from exclusive boutique properties to island “funky”.  I had chosen island “funky”.   There was no air-conditioning, TV or phone, but my room at Banana’s, on the main strip in Esperanza, provided much in the way of atmosphere.  It is actually a beach bar and grill that just happens to have guest rooms.  I relaxed and unwound over a mai tai at the bar, then had some time to do a bit of exploring, before my evening adventure.  As I wandered through this picturesque, little town I felt like I had discovered a tiny piece of paradise hidden from the world.  

Finally, the time had arrived. Sun had set and I was on my way to Mosquito Bay to enjoy what remains as one of the most memorable experiences of my travels.  Spectacular is an understatement when describing the incredible beauty of the mysterious blue-green light emanating from the ocean. Created by millions of bioluminescent organisms, this phenomenon is best viewed on moonless nights. I was fortunate to have chosen a perfect evening to witness nature’s magic.  As I swam amidst this wonderland of light and color, I felt as if I were floating on a cloud and able to touch the stars.

Returning to Esperanza, I found myself wide awake and still “glowing” from my experience. Much too wound-up to retire, I opted for a nightcap at the bar, only to discover that I was not alone.  There were many other like-minded patrons engaged in animated conversations discussing the encounter.  Participating in the lively revelry until late in the evening, I eventually retired, exhausted.

A delightful beach walk the next morning at Sun Bay rejuvenated my spirits, on this, my last day in Puerto Rico. A sense of calm befell me, as I drank in the tranquil ambiance created by this pristine beach. Walking along this practically deserted, mile stretch of sand, I wished I could stay a few more days.  But, I was returning to the mainland, on an early ferry, in order to allow a final bit of touring, before returning my rental car and meeting my friends for the cruise portion of this journey. 

Having left my car at the ferry terminal overnight, I was in my car by mid-morning, heading south on Highway 3 for a taste of rural Puerto Rico. This scenic trek took me through quaint seaside villages en route to Humacao.  At Humacao, I accessed Highway 30 and turned inland to briefly explore the verdant Cordillera Central mountain range.  This scenic loop of highways and country roads would eventually lead me back to San Juan, but not before I was able to pass leisurely through the magnificent green corridor, with its serene ambiance, and the busy city of Caguas.

I had accomplished quite a bit in my short visit, but realized that I had only touched the surface of this vast wonderland.  I had covered only a fraction of the 272 mile coastline.  Realizing that even a week might not be enough time to explore the riches of this diverse island, I vowed to return. On my next visit, I would concentrate on exploring Dorado, the northern resort area west of San Juan and the adjoining area along the west coast of the island, known as Porta del Sol (door to the sun).  From glittering casinos and active nightlife, to beautiful beaches and ecological treasures there truly is something for everyone in Puerto Rico. 

But, now, it was time for chapter one, the solo journey, of my trip to come to an end.  It was with mixed emotions that I arrived at the airport, as scheduled, to greet my friends and begin chapter two of my Caribbean adventure.  As I looked forward to the tropical delights yet to be discovered, I fondly remembered the magical moments of the last few days.  I hope you enjoyed chapter one of my odyssey, and I look forward to sharing chapter two.