Hi cindyeb. I'm not Raoul, but I hope you don't mind if I chime in.
I am a great fan of this ship, and took a 5-night cruise back in 2001. The food and service were superb then, and I hear from friends that have sailed her recently that this is still the case.
Compared to brand new ships that offer rock climbing walls, alternative dining experiences, outstanding kids' programs, and other recent bells and whistles, I can understand why this ship gets mixed reviews. Yet as these are not critical to your enjoyment (and I feel the same way), I wouldn't worry about the bad reviews. And yes -- cabins are air-conditioned.
I give just one word of caution, and it's a big one - choose your cabin carefully. The two lowest passenger decks, A-deck and B-deck are very maze-like and the cabins are rather sparse. There is also a group of cabins on Main Deck that is not accessible by elevator.
That is not to say that all cabins are undesirable. We stayed on Upper Deck and found it a great location and very convenient to the dining room, show lounge, and other public areas. I'd recommend this location, as well as Sun Deck. Promenade Deck cabins are nice, although they overlook the indoor promenade rather than giving an unobstructed sea view. Note that people cannot look into these cabins, but occupants can look out.
Happy to answer any other questions. We're thinking of booking a weekend cruise, as well.