Hi Sheepie - my husband and I have cruised with HAL a number of times over the last few years. We have been on the Zaandam, Ryndam, Westerdam and are booked on the Noordam for 20 days in April. We have always found the food to be delicious and the staff very friendly. Although you can find burgers and fries on the ship we have never found them on the menu in the dining room or in the Lido Buffet at dinner time. We spent 5 weeks aboard the Westerdam in April 09 and can't say that we ever had a bad meal. We were recently on a Royal Caribbean ship and the food didn't measure up to what we have come to expect on the HAL ships. As for smoking - the HAL ships have very limited areas where you can smoke indoors. Usually only the casino, 1 or 2 of the bars and 1 outer deck area at the rear of the ship. Neither my husband or I smoke and have never found smoke to be a noticable problem on any of the HAL ships we have been on.
Enjoy your cruise. I am sure you will enjoy the wonderful service and quality food on HAL.